Anya's Garden Perfumes + The Natural Perfumery Institute

The Natural Perfumers Guild’s Founder, Mandy Aftel submitted her resignation from the Guild on January 28, 2011, and announced it publicly on April 14, 2011.   We respect her decision, and wish her well in her endeavors and her three Fifi nominations, which paved the way for natural perfumery to be accepted as an ART.  We look forward to bringing the Guild to the next level as we work towards achieving our goals of even more awareness and new voices, noses and fans in   the 21st Century.

I'll be here until 10 PM, EST, USA, so if you have any questions, please post.  I'm working on the lilac post I promised two days ago, but life sure has a way of messing up your plans, eh? ;-)  Are the lilacs blooming where you are?  I have tips on how to capture it's scent.

Oh, no, my beloved kewda flower, the male flower of the Pandanus odoritissimus, a Prehistoric plant that has survived for millions of year, may be in danger because of a proposed Indian law.   It seems that the kewda flower is one ingredient used in a rather toxic chewing gum known as gutkha.  You can read the article for all the details, but I will cut the chase about the problem:  an industry may be shut down because of this, an industry that supports many families and a beautiful product that is used in perfumery.  I use pandanus flower oil in two of my perfumes, Fairchild and Kewdra.  I will be able to harvest the flower here in Miami or grow my own if supply dries up.   Pandanus - aka Kewda flower I truly don't think it will dry up, because some of the distilleries will remain active.  Perhaps the distilleries could have been more forward-thinking and used some long range planning for alternative uses for their kewda oil, but often industries fail on the human end of the p

It's a hot and steamy day in Miami, the peach-scented frangipanis, Vietnamese gardenias, gardenias, white champaka and long-petaled jasmine, next to the Confederate jasmines, are blooming.  I'll be enfleuraging and tincturing all day, but will still love to answer your perfumery questions. Oh, and once I sort through all the entries, write the respondent's names down, cut the paper with the name into strips, I'll choose the winners from the Guild- and ginger-helpful respnses this past week.  Well, one name will be selected because I like the name they've suggested for the non-fresh ginger. First, though, coffee!

The Natural Perfumers Guild has added a new benefit to membership: group bottle buys.  What this does is bring affordable, beautiful bottles into the micro-businesses that make up the Guild.  No matter what category membership a Guild member holds, they can take part in this.  Elise Pearlstine generously offered to help organize the buy and administer it.  She made the initial contact with suppliers to identify what was available in case lots, then she received samples from them, and she and I evaluated them. We looked at the bottles and caps available, and determined that yes, even though five or six Guild members might be sharing the same buy, with different caps and labels, there would be enough of an aesthetic difference so that the perfume bottle would be "their own" as it were. After presenting about nine different bottles/sizes to the Guild members via a photo gallery in our private Yahoo group, bottles G and J were selected by those participating in the buy.  I

Can you help me?  I need two things from my readers. There will be a freebie gift for two helpful souls who reply, one for each subject. First:  Back in late 2006, I stumbled across *fresh* ginger root essential oil at liberty natural.  There were two - one from Madagascar, one from Indonesia.  I immediately told my perfumery friends about it, and I used the fresh version in the kits for my students.  Why the excitement? Fresh grated ginger - zest, fresh, hot, spicy fragrance Previously, the only ginger root oil available was from the peeled, sun-dried roots, and it was a middle note for perfumery.  It had a mellow, soft fragrance, much like the dried ginger powder you get for baking purposes.  This fresh ginger, on the other hand, smelled just like the fresh cut or grated root!  Hot, spicy, wet, luscious, and a top note! I've used the aged, dried ginger EO, because it is valuable in perfumery and for food and drink purposes, but its soft character was just that, soft, c

Nowhere in the 350 page textbook, nor in the online study area of the website (access via password to the private area) will at student of the Natural Perfumery Institu te find a formula.  Not a formula for an accord.  Not a formula for a basic perfume.  I don't instruct students to study existing perfumes, either mainstream or niche, synthetic types, or natural. Students are given the skill set to properly evaluate, analyze and categorize the array of natural aromatics that they obtain, either by purchasing the course kits, or have purchased on their own.  They are instructed how to create accords and evaluate how the aromatics interact.  They then are given instructions on how make a perfume. This system works beautifully, in my opinion, and allows the students intellect and creativity to combine, allowing them to set their own aesthetic.  They still adhere to the fragrance family paradigm, and select a cohesive theme for their perfume, say, a gourmand floral, but they arri

Ask the Perfumer is open for questions from hot and humid Miami - summer is giving us a sneak peek with 90F-degree weather today.  I'm just in from watering my plants, which, since we're on water restrictions, is only on Wednesday and Sunday, and I'm wilting.  Perk me up with your questions. And today is a very special day for Mandy Aftel, master natural perfumer - she's nominated for three FiFi Awards from the Fragrance Foundation.  I believe it's the first ever Indie Awards by them, so it's quite a coup. 

In the Spring, do your thoughts turn to lighter perfumes? Ask the Perfumer is open for questions today, and with a gentle reminder: please do not post follow-up questions to me privately during the week.  This is the forum for all questions.

It's a beautiful day here in Miami, and I'll be working on extracting the scent of hyacinths both by enfleurage and tincturing.  I hope you have a beautiful day, too, and if you have any perfumery questions, I'll be here until 10 PM.

I'm here until 10 PM to answer questions you have about perfumery.  There may be a time lag until your questions appear, as I'm in and out all day.  Have a beautiful Sunday!

I'm really going to be blogging a lot more, especially since I realize that I failed to mention Tom Pease's review of Kaffir perfume on Perfume Posse on February 7th! I did tweet about the review, calling it "stunningly accurate", but that's definitely not the same as posting here, on the blog. Some of Tom's comments did stun me - in a great way.  To hear that my perfumes are his "armor" and "heartlessly chic", in the vein of Bandit, an iconic mainstream perfume was just wonderful.  Too often, we perfumers work in solitude, and yes, sales can indicate that customers love our creations, but we also don't get direct feedback, except from bloggers. When I wake up every day, the first business thought on my mind is - how can I help my customers?  Sound odd.  It isn't, if you think about it.  Tom was helped by a perfume so feisty, that he felt it was like "Bandit" and provided him with "armor".  Most females, I w

Ask the Perfumer forum is open for Sunday, Feb. 27, 2011.  I'm happy to assist you with your perfumery questions and as usual, I will be in and out all day, so if it's not answered immediately, be assured it will be by tonight.

I've just dashed in, ready for perfumery questions.  I hope everyone is enjoying a beautiful day!

I'll be in and out of the studio today, but don't hesitate to leave your questions, I'll get to all of them.  I love checking the stats for this feature, and seeing all the hits from all over the world. Some check back over and over in the course of a day, so it's obvious this feature really interests you!  If there are 700 hits, maybe I only get five questions, but everyone is sharing in the answers.  Don't be afraid to post, because those of you who do post to me via email know I point you right back here ;-)

Ah, Bob Marley's birthday!  Any hemp oil related questions? Maybe pimento oil (the best is from Jamaica)? I'll be in and out throughout the day, enjoying the highest temps in the nation right now.  Miami rocks in February!

This happy little bee was working away on my pink lemon tree yesterday I had a lot of fun putting this newsletter together, and for the first time ever, I got emails from readers telling me they loved it. Wow, what a nice Valentine to me! There's a typo in the link to the store where 25% off is the lover's gift.  Here's the correct link: http://anyasgarden.com/store.htm The newsletter can be read at http://anyasgarden.com/newsfeb1-2001.htm

The theme and details of the next Guild project will be revealed to the Guild perfumers on Tuesday, Feb. 1st. They will release the perfumes and the project will be launched on the Internet Oct. 1st, 2011.  I can say this much: it's an extension of the Outlaw Perfume project, although the words outlaw and perfume don't appear in the slogan ;-)

It's a beautiful day for perfume talk. I'll be gardening outside today, and thinking up new ways to extract scent from the lovely aromatic plants. What's your perfume question?

It's chilly here in Miami, only up to 70F today!  Still, the aglaia is blooming, some jasmines are blooming, and so the perfume making obsession is still fueled by nature.  Are you frozen in somewhere? Want to talk about the beautiful aromatics that make our life better? Ask your questions until 10PM EST USA today.

Admin Announcement from Anya McCoy, Guild President: The Natural Perfumers Guild Wekcines Elise Pearlstine as Administrative Manager.  Elise, the nose of Bellyflowers Perfumes , is taking on several projects as part of her duties for the Guild. First, Elise has inventoried and categorized all of the items in the Guild Scent Library.   As Perfumers and Associates join the Guild, they are requested to submit, according to their category, perhaps one full size bottle of perfume, and samples of their perfume line, or perhaps soaps, body lotions and other fragrant products.  It is important that we keep a reference library of the Perfumers products first and foremost, for historical purposes and also for PR and communication purposes.  Elise will contact Guild members who may need to send products to fill in the gaps of their materials in the Scent Library.  Second, Elis

Lazy Sunday!  Still, I will persevere to answer your perfumery questions. 

You need to leave a comment to be in the running for the drawing to win perfumes. Light and Amberess are among a number of beautiful perfumes offered in a giveaway on Cafleurebon . Draw ends Thursday January 13, 2011 at 1 am and 11 seconds EST.

It's the first Ask the Perfumer Sunday of the new year, and the new decade.  Happy New Year to everyone!  Got any perfumery questions? I'll be here unti l10 PM tonight.

I must admit I have never seen an article like this before.  The writer obviously knows the basics of perfume making, and compares it to what is needed to, well, for want of a better phrase, government making.  http://www.thenewamerican.com/index.php/history/american/5711-what-is-the-essence-of-american-liberty My goodness: What are the head chords, heart chords, and base chords of the American republic? Which of all the fragrances did our Founding Fathers mix to concoct the sweetest, most aromatic bouquet ever devised by the political perfumers of history? The evidence is in the product itself, and the various component spices are readily recognizable by one with a trained and discriminating nose. What do you think about this article?

I almost missed this mention of "Best Natural Fragrance" on Elena's list on Perfume Shrine! Here's what I wrote on Facebook about the award:  I adore my Light perfume. I was almost afraid to release it, as it went against my typical style, yet I was consumed with creating a modern "cologne" perfume, beautiful and wearable 24/7, year-round. Well, listen to your passion and don't hesitate, because Light was named Natural Fragrance of 2010 by Elena of Perfume Shrine.

I'm just soooo happy that the perfumers from the Guild followed me into Outlaw territory and won this award from Elena of Perfume Shrine: Rising Star of 2010 : "Outlaw" perfumers doing what they darn please irrespective of perfumery restriction, just for the heck of it. It was about time...

BEST BUZZ AWARD   MICHELYN: The Natural Perfumer’s Guild Blogger Events: The Mystery of Musk and Outlaw Perfume As Ida wrote,   “ It seems inconceivable that there can exist so many gifted natural perfumers, of whom one has never heard”.

Monday, December 27, 2010 10 Midwinter Perfumes- Keep Warm Without Getting Bored   6. Anya's Garden: Kewdra - An all-natural and botanical dirty musk, as carnal as it gets and then some.

The perfumers in the Natural Perfumers Guild worked very hard this year to create perfumes to fit themes that are close to our hearts - botanical and cruelty-free musks, and declaring our independence from nonsensical IFRA constraints. Ca Fleure Bon recognized our efforts in their Best of Scent 2010 awards. December 29, 2010 The Fragrant Year In Review: 2010… From Top to Bottom Notes One of my favorite trends of 2010 was the emergence of Natural Perfumery. Under the auspices of The Natural Perfumers Guild I was honored to participate in two projects they held this year; The Mystery of Musk and Outlaw Perfume . These projects exposed me to some very talented perfumers who I think are the rising stars of not just Natural Perfumery but Perfumery. Those names you should be looking for are Charna Ethier, JoAnne Bassett, Alfredo Dupetit , and Jane Cate . This is not to mention the “old hands” like Anya McCoy, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Alexandra Balah