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Showing posts with the label natural perfumery

StarFlower Perfume is Released by Anya's Garden - a Floral and Foodie Tribute to Mexico

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StarFlower Perfume and EdP Fragrances Launched by Anya's Garden Perfumes: An Homage to Mexican aromatics The tuberose flower has always captivated me. When nighttime comes, and the fragrance billows out into the night air, few can remain stoic in its presence. The alluring beauty of the strong, spicy scent can draw people to it like moths to a flame. A native of Mexico, the tuberose has spread across the world, thriving in many climates, from the tropics to the coldest termperate zones, so many know its beauty. In Mexico, they also know its flavor, because they have used it in sweet treats for recorded history. I first became aware of its use in ice cream from an 18th Century book Encarnación's Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California, and further research showed its use in other sweet desserts. My perfume musings got me to thinking, well, let's see how it would pair with vanilla and chocolate, two other tasty and fragrant offerings from Mexico. All I can

Lilac Flower CO2 - Disappointment, Yet Hope

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New Lilac Flower CO2 too faint and too short-lived - but let's keep hoping! I was very excited to be offered a sample of an ambitious extraction that could have rocked the natural perfumery world - a CO2 form of lilac flowers. The only lilac flower scent in perfumery is synthetic, and many of us long for the ethereal, green sweet tangy floral note on our perfume organ. The CO2 is a pale yellow wax, and at first sniff out of the bottle, I was pleasantly surprised - true lilac scent! No indolic undernotes, either, showing that the flowers had been harvested and quickly extracted before the musky, rank indoles could develop. I invited a student over for the formal organoleptic evaluation. We used the sheets I designed for my online perfumery course, and we sat down with high hopes. She wasn't very familiar with lilacs, coming from a part of the country where they don't grow, so I knew this would be interesting! First we smeared a little bit of the wax on the broad end of the s

A Lovely New Book for Artisan Perfumers - Artisan Perfumery by Alec Lawless

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Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose by Alec Lawless I'm on vacation, so this won't be a long review, but I just had to get the word out on Alec Lawless' new book, Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose . The title should give a hint of his humorous approach to the subject of artisan perfumery, and he is consistent throughout the book with his sly wink at the industry, of which he's been a part of for over twenty years. The co-owner of Aqua-Oleum , along with his ex-wife, famed aromatherapy author Julia Lawless, Alec knows where the greatest aromatics are to be found, either in essential oil, concrete or absolute form, and after years of playing with the essences, began blending. He has a wonderfully relevant background in wine appreciation, and some of his observations on scent and perception, working in his love of sensory and psychology topics, are eye - and nose - openers. Lest I forget, the book's cover, a small piece of an original artwork he also s

A Lovely New Aromatic for the Perfumers - Omumbiri resin

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Omumbiri resin The Yahoo Natural Perfumery Group I host is a diverse, huge collection of lovers of natural aromatics from around the world. Recently, a member from South Africa wrote about a resin that is collected by the women of the Himba tribe of Namibia that shows promise in perfumery. The Himba collect the resin of Commiphora wildii - common name Omumbibi - to make body perfumes for themselves from this lovely fragrance material. It's related to myrrh, but has a lighter, fresher scent. The Himba mix the resin with fat, a process we can equate with an unguent, much like those known in ancient Egypt. Estee Lauder, Robertet and other large corporations have been investigating use of Omumbibi resin for a few years. Thankfully, Sophia, our NP Yahoo group member, was able to connect with the organization that is set up to protect the Himba and their aromatic resin and obtain some for experimentation by natural perfumers. This is the same organization that the corporations have b

Now Smell This Hosts Giveaway and Announcement of Launch of Kaffir in Cologne strength

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About a year and a half ago, Kevin of the Now Smell This blog reviewed my Kaffir perfume and stated he wished it was available in cologne strength for summer. Cost also figured in, and a hope for a bigger bottle. Well, I didn't make it last summer, but I have small 15ml spray cologne offerings of the zesty and leathery/woody Kaffir ready for this summer. (Yes, a perfume can open zesty and get all leathery and sexy and woody!) I wrote Robin, the head honcho of NST and offered her the exclusive release of Kaffir and a bottle to be awarded to a US or Canadian winner of a random draw . There were so many quick responses, and so many disappointed late entrants, I promptly offered two more bottles. As soon as I get the winner's addresses, the bottles will be in the mail, resplendent in their unique recycled boxes - that will grow wildflowers if planted! Its just a way to give back to the community, to thank Kevin for planting the idea of a cologne, and for Robin for being such a pion

Reminder: Natural Perfumers Guild Supplier Allured Business Media Offers 30% off all books Through June 30, 2009

30% discount off any book published by Allured Books through June 30th ! Natural Perfumers Guild member Allured Books - 30% off books Once again Allured Books, a division of Allured Business Media, has come through with a great discount offer on books! Allured is one of the top publishing house s in the world for fragrance and cosmetics books . If one of their gems is on your wish list, now is the time to take advantage of this offer and save! Just enter Anya30 as the coupon code when checking out to receive the 30% off the price of the book(s). If you have any questions on their books or ordering online, you can contact them at Books@allured.com , subject line- Anya30 . Web site - www.allured.com/bookstore

Distillation Part One - Gemini New Moon Distillation - The Noble Bay Laurel in a Heart Magic distillation unit

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Bay Leaf hydrosol flowing into the beaker I recently had to cut down - with much sorrow - a huge bay leaf tree/bush that I planted about 10 years ago. Many meals have benefited from the organic leaves of the Laurus nobilis I harvested from that tree. Planted at the SE corner of my patio, it had to be removed for patio expansion. I saved the roots, trunk, limbs and leaves, and they are all going to be used, nothing wasted. The roots, trunk and twigs will be used when I barbeque, as their aromatic beauty will flavor everything on the grill with a complex, floral, yet earthy and woody fragrance and taste. Now, I reasoned, was a great time to start distilling. Then with amazing clarity, the Universe confirmed my feeling. Within one week, a distiller I had known for years on the internet but not corresponded with in a year or two contacted me about joining the Guild with his newly-founded business, a Yahoo Natural Perfumery (YNP) group member joined the Guild and informed me he's making

Natural Perfumers Guild Member Allured Publishing - Great Discounts on books 30% off through June 30th

Once again Allured has come through with a great discount offer on books! Allured is one of the top publishing house in the world for fragrance and cosmetics books , and if one of their gems is on your wish list, you may wish to take advantage of this offer. Just enter Anya30 as the voucher code when checking out to receive the 30% off the price of the book(s).

New Members - The Natural Perfumers Guild Will Celebrate Beginning Its Fourth Year on June 1st with a Chance to Win the Arctander CD worth $900

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The Natural Perfumers Guild Will Celebrate Beginning Its Fourth Year on June 1st with a Chance to Win the Steffen Arctander CD worth $900 - New Members Only From the Slow Scent Newsletter May 1, 2009 sent to Subscribers The Natural Perfumers Guild will celebrate its Fourth anniversary on June 1, 2009 and Guild President Anya McCoy in asssociation with Allured Publishing Media announces that a CD of the three-volume set that includes Aroma Chemicals Vol. 1, Aroma Chemicals Vol. 2 and Natural Origins is being awarded in a random drawing for new members who join the Guild this month. This valuable CD retails for $900, and it might be yours if you join the NPG between May 1 and June 1, 2009. If your completed application and membership fee is received between those dates, your name will be entered into the giveaway for the CD. This is a great opportunity to be in the running to obtain one of the most coveted research tools in perfumery. The legacy of Steffan Arctander is that he produced

White Sandalwood Oil + Full Moon in Libra = A Perfumer's Dream

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I'm overwhelmed with the sultry, woody, spicy, balsamic, heavy, transcendent scent of the bottles of Santalum album, aka White Sandalwood essential oil that I've been pouring for the members of the Natural Perfumers Guild. Tonight there's a Full Moon in Libra, the sign of beauty, and sandalwood is in the Pantheon of glorious, gorgeous, sought-after rare and elusive beautiful raw aromatics for fine natural perfumery. My sign is Libra, so I feel the utterly exalting power of this historic, deep, balsamic oil. Being a rather sloppy "pourer" of raw materials, I managed to get about 2mls of this oil on either my hands or in the pouring tray, where it was easy to recover. So I just got to schmering it, to use a little Yiddish, in honor of Pesach, and I'm in heaven! I also rubbed some on my shoulder, which was yanked out a bit today playing with the huge puppy I'm fostering, and the pain just melted away. Or maybe I'm just melting. I'm as tranquil as that

10% off at Anya's Garden Perfumes through April 4, 2009

To obtain your 10% off any scented purchase at Anya's Garden Perfumes, just use the code kaffirlime at checkout.

Anya's Garden Perfumes Kaffir Reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am

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I'm very touched that Kaffir Perfume, a Lime Leaf and Leather perfume from Anya's Garden, was reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am on March 27, 2009 and received a rave. Abigail is a perfumista with a skeptical nose about natural perfume, and the diffusivity and longevity of Kaffir has won her over - horray! As she notes, so many think that when you say "lime" that it'll be like the citrus fruit, but no, kaffir lime leaf is an aldehyde of a different sniffa - a chemical tweak on the typical (-) citronellal, being a (+) citronellal. I pushed the envelope with the opening blast of this unusual and fascinating citrus oil, and it's a great springtime scent because it embodies all the green sprigliness of the awakening of earth. Abigail then really "got" the leathery woody drydown, because after all that green hormonal surge and floral heart of sexiness, you need some good, unctuous long-lasting grounding ;-) When Kevin of Now Smell This reviewed Kaffir l

Anya's Garden Wins Top Florida Environmental Yard Award

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Anya's Garden of Perfumes is Named a " Golden Oak " yard for environmentally-sound practices I'm honored to announce that the perfume-centric garden that surrounds my home in Miami Shores received the highest award that the University of Florida's Friendly Yards and Neighborhoods program. I was the 17th person to go through the evaluation process back in 2003, the first in my village at that time. They recently revamped the program to reflect three levels of environmentally compliant gardens, and the Golden Oak award is the highest. A yard has to achieve at least 50 points, and I had 65 ticked off my checklist. Barbara, the State of Florida rep who came to evaluate my hard walked around asking questions about my irrigation practices, fertilizer use, grouping of plants according to water usage and function, and many other subjects. The program is meant to encourage water conservation, discourage the use of invasive plants, protect the waters of Florida from

Please spread this letter to all natural aromatics groups and blogs - EU-based bad science is once again gunning for natural aromatics

Hello Everyone: For those of you who know me and know how long and how hard I have fought against the creeping over-regulation of natural aromatics, please be aware that here is a new threat: a thesis from a student who seems to be on track with the bad science and agenda of RIFM. I hope you can perhaps give back to the natural aromatics community by paying attention to our fight against the US Food and Drug Administrations Global Harmonization Act of 2009, which is the way the EU anti-naturals, anti-small business agenda makers are getting their foot in the door of our government. It will mean the end of our businesses, and perhaps even the end of our access to natural oils for home use. I've already posted this on the Natural Perfumers Guild blog and my blog, and I urge you to do the same if you have a blog, and also send it to relevant aromatherapy or perfumery groups you may be on. Anya Here is Tony's open letter - please spread it across the internet and if you can, work i

So what if your perfume might stain? So does coffee, tea, red wine, etc.

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Saffron stigmas Saffron absolute, made from the stigmas of the Crocus sativa flower are prized in cookery because of the slightly bitter, aromatic flavor they impart to food. The thread-like stigmas also impart a shade of yellow to the food, ranging from pale to moderately orange-yellow. The color comes from the catetonoid content of the stigmas, the same coloring agent found in tomatoes. Like tomatoes, saffron can stain clothes if you drop some of that yummy risotto you've made with the stigmas onto your white shirt. Like tomato, the saffron stain is pretty stubborn to remove. So, you are careful when you twirl the spaghetti on a fork, laden with marinara sauce, and you are careful when you lift the fork of saffron risotto to your lips. You pretty much take the same care when drinking coffee, tea or wine - same staining power, different dye chemical. Still, the same idea. Just be careful so you can enjoy your meal or drink. Over the years I've spoken with perfumers and even a

Do you make a lot of mistakes attempting to create a perfume? My online basic perfumery course will set you on the professional path to perfumery

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Anya's Garden Online Basic Natural Perfumery Course The worldwide course is one year long and consists of nine modules of study Do you find you make some common mistakes in your attempts to create perfume? Do you even know if you're making mistakes? Are your blends muddy and you don't know why? Do you wish to gain a solid understanding of the basics of perfumery - basics that will last you a lifetime of study and perfume creation? Then this online, interactive course is for you. This course is for those who desire comprehensive basic training in: - Natural Perfumery - to become a Professional Perfumer - Education in a natural art - General interest in blending natural aromatics for the bath and body industry Materials Provided for Study - An aromatics kit of 25 absolutes and essential oils, labeled with botanical name, and country of origin. The bottles are 4ml in size, and four of the rare essences are diluted to 10%. Many students have said these aromatics far surpass any

Shape-shifting odor molecules

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Chemists Promote Theory of "Shape Shifting" Odor Molecules Perfumers, perfumistas, scent geeks and assorted nose-governed folk have been aware of the shape theory of olfaction for years. Let's say a molecule of orange is square and of a certain size. Theory had it that your nasal receptor site had a square "hole" (for want of a better term) of that size that allowed that square orange molecule to travel up to the brain, where it was analyzed to be orange. Luca Turin had a different theory, and he postulated that odor molecules vibrated to a different frequency, and it was the receptor site that passed that frequency on to the brain, and thus, we knew an orange was an orange, not to be mixed with apple. Profs. Kevin Ryan and Stuart Firestein report in the journal " Chemistry and Senses " that they have a third theory, more linked to the shape theory - that molecules shape shift as they are inhaled. To me, it looks like a kind of hybrid between shape the

A Happy Naturally Perfumed New Year!

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I'm trying to take a few days off from the perfume business, but you know how it is. Artisans are workaholics and devoted to the art, so I'm still fiddling with mods, packaging up the boronia for the Guild members, fielding questions, etc. It's been a great year, but what I wouldn't give for some truly carefree days. My mother is doing incredibly well for 89, friends are, for the most part, hale and hearty, family is cruising along pretty well, and the cats are being their same old catty silly selves. I will now have three perfumes released early next year, well, at least by spring, I hope. Also, the Prima Aroma line will launch. Stay tuned for updates, and some more specials for the Guild members. Take care everyone, and remember to reflect and use your wisdom in moving forward. Most of all, take care of yourself.

Organic White Rose hydrosol from Anya's Garden Perfumes - limited supply

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Shhhh --- a quick, limited offer from Anya's Garden - a glorious organic white rose hydrosol! This sale starts December 25th, 2008 Notice: Anya's Garden of Perfumes regular store is closed for a lovely holiday until Monday January 5, 2009 But , due to popular demand, the Organic Bulgarian White Rose Hydrosol will be sold during this time - get it while you can! Supplies are limited and it is expected to sell out quickly. Click here to purchase. Rosa damascena var. Alba is a descendant of the ancient apothecary rose, Rosa gallica. Used for centuries for skin care, it is lovely just sprayed on the face and body after a shower, or sniffed to be enjoyed anytime to refresh and lighten your spirit. It blends beautifuly into lotions and creams during the "water phase". Mix with some clay for a facial mask, and spritz some hydrosol on after you remove the mask because it's a wonderful toner for your skin, balancing the sebum production. I love to spray it on

Happy Holiday Wishes from Anya's Garden of Perfumes

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Wishing you lovely perfume this holiday time of year Check back tomorrow for another giveaway