Anya's Garden Perfumes + The Natural Perfumery Institute

My first photo of my first ylang flower in the hot, bright Miami sun. Ylang ylang trees can quickly and easily grow to 40' in Miami.  That is the major reason I put off growing one for so many years.   Then I read that in Madagascar, where the trees are grown for their fragrant flowers, which are a major economic resource for the perfume industry, are kept pruned to six to 10 feet so the flowers are easy to harvest.  So, about a year and a half ago I planted a tiny four foot tree and have had to prune it so it's now about 7' tall. The young green blooms are cute!  However, their scent is very weak, so they can't be harvested yet. Ylang ylang trees bloom in the Autumn, I read, but friends who have visited Fairchild gardens report they can bloom year round.  Friends who have them growing in their neighborhoods, not their own lots (since they're so big and can overwhelm a city lot) couldn't recall what time of year they bloomed....

We're discussing doppelganger lily of the valley accords in the Yahoo Natural Perfumery group.  I love that group!  When I started it in 2002, I never dreamed it would become the premier site to study natural perfumery on the Web, and a place where true friendship formed among the members.  It's organized as an educational group, with some rules about how you post, limited ads for approved vendors, and just tons and tons of information available.  We just passed over 45,000 messages in the archives, and we have an extensive Files section, downloadable vintage perfume books and much more.  So, if you can't get your question answered here, and you're just itching to find out more about massoia bark on a Wednesday, the Yahoo Natural Perfumery group is the place for you.

Let's talk about terroir - really limited terroir.  Do you grow zinnias?  I've grown them since childhood because I love their big, colorful flowers and how they're "cut and come again" - that means, the more you cut the flowers, the more you get!  It resprouts flowers from the cut stem, which gives you a rewarding, ongoing harvest. About 35 years ago, while visiting the long-gone, much-lamented Magic Dragon store in Westwood, I discovered zinnia oil.  Most of the oils sold at the Magic dragon were 100% natural.  The zinnia oil came from India.  It was warm, honeyed, richly floral and just magnificent.  I was confused because the zinnias I had always grown had no scent. I'm convinced now that most zinnia oils are at least partly synthetic, but here's the strange part: I once put the vial of zinnia oil under the nose of a scientist I knew, and challenged him to name the oil.  He immediately said zinnia!  I was shocked.  He said that's...

Essential Living Aromatherapy Recipes for Health and Home 113 pages Aromahead Institute Andrea Butje http://www.aromahead.com/blog/essential-living-aromatherapy-ebook/ Andrea Butje, instructor at the Aromahead Institute and longtime legend in the aromatherapy (AT) community, has released Essential Living Aromatherapy Recipes for Health and Home ,   an e-book that is a treasure for those who love to use essential oils and hydrosols.  Andrea's basic research on fragrant, earth-easy ways to incorporate essential oils into your life makes Essential Living a must-have. I keep it on my desktop so I can open it quickly when I need some tips.  I really appreciate the comprehensiveness of the topics covered in the 15 chapters: 1. Introduction to Aromatherapy / 3 2. Your Essential Oil Tool Kit / 8 3. Basic Aromatherapy Applications / 14 4. The Kitchen / 20 5. The Bathroom / 24 6. Beauty and Skin / 29 7. Medicine Chest / 41 8. The Living Room / 53 9. The ...

Just harvested a bunch of pink lemons from my tree, and will be harvesting the leaves for a petitgrain distillation.  It's so much fun growing fragrant materials and transforming them into usable products for my natural perfumerie.  I hope you can do this, on some level.  Perhaps you can't grow plants because you live in an apartment, but you can buy freeze-dried raspberries or other fruits and tincture them!  Let's talk about natural perfume and feel free to ask any question on any subject.

We have a lovely list of renewing and new Natural Perfumers Guild members. Please welcome our new members: New Clemence Barbier – Dame Clemence - Associate Claire Lautier – Friend Heather Tobin – Friend Rose Tellier - Friend Viveca Göcke – Friend Pat White - Friend And warm thanks to our renewing members: Roger Howell – Alpha Aromatics - Supplier Claire Martin-Garrigue Iriodes - Associate Christine Ziegler – A Little Olfactory - Supplier Nancy Brooks – New England Natural Soaps - Associate Christi Meshell – House of Matriarch - Perfumer Leyla Bringas – LunaAroma- Perfumer Liz Cook – One Seed – Perfumer Alexandra Balahoutis – Strange Invisible Perfumes – Perfumer Dr. Benita Aufinger – Friend MJ Simon - Friend Elise Pearlstine - Belly Flowers Perfumes - Perfumer

Autumn is my favorite time of year.  It's almost as if it's a new year, with new beginnings and a fresh start on projects.  Do you feel the same?  I just launched one perfume, and I have one in the works for a late-November project, and yesterday I began to muse about another.  Have you found your perfume-making spirit stirring?  If you have any questions, I'll be here to answer them for you until 10 PM EST.

It's going to be a "cool" day in Miami now that the cold front has moved through - high only up to 85F!  That means I'll be in the garden a lot, starting seeds for the veggie garden.  Most of my aromatics are in bloom, so it's going to be a fragrant day, too.  Feel free to ask any of your perfume-creation related questions until 10 PM. If you'd like a chance to win a 15ml spray bottle of my latest release, Royal Lotus, please visit Cafleurebon before Oct. 4th and leave a comment to be in the draw.  There are nine other Guild perfumers in the Brave New Scent project that are reviewed on Cafleurebon and other websites, and you'll have a lot of chances to win one of these beautiful perfumes. Good luck!

The Natural Perfumers Guild Fleur Awards 2011  We are keeping the final design for the Fleurs under wraps until next year, and the following recipients will receive their physical awards at that time, and receive printed certificates at this time. Several Guild members and myself kept this surprise announcement of the Fleur Awards under our hats for several months, and it was hard to do!  We will have a much-expanded awards ceremony next year, but the logical tie-in with our Brave New Scents project demanded that we select two of the most innovative, ground-breaking members and present them with the first Fleurs.  The two members have devoted much of their careers to distilling aromatics, a big step forward for perfumers in modern times, when most perfumers rely on suppliers for their raw materials.  The October 1, 2011 Guild Brave New Scents project highlights natural aromatics of the 21st Century, and both recipients of the award are pioneers that have steppe...

  The Outlaw Perfumers are honoring the aromatics of the 21st Century Nothing says innovation like using materials that are cutting edge. We realized that many new aromatics had been brought to market since the year 2000 - things like lilac CO2, gardenia absolute, aglaia flower and many more.  Also appearing were previously-unknown to the artisan niche community of perfumers fragrant beauties like linden flower CO2, wild rose absolute and yuzu essential oil.   Many of the perfumers in the Guild, myself included, were making fragrant tinctures of rare and stunning aromatic materials, from freeze-dried strawberries to obscure jasmines. So, what's an Outlaw Perfumer to do? Gather those lovelies, and include materials like lotus absolutes, which weren't used by traditional perfumers, but were in use in India for many years, and create some Brave New Scents, unfettered by IFRA. My muse was ancient India, brought into the present, once again (remember Kewdra from the ...

Yesterday I was on the phone with a Guild member in Ohio, talking gardening.  I gave him a tip about compost tea - to spray on the plants, not drink!  You never know where a question may take you, and the answer might surprise you.  The compost tea was the result of him asking if I use Miracle Gro to spray on my tomato plants.  You may want to ask about tinctures and we'll segue into ultrasonics. 

"Of course they visited the parfumeries and indulged in all manner of mingled fragrances, cunning fards, and rare oils. Some of the scents were made from real flowers, others from mysterious unnatural blossoms, whose odours were full of th e intoxications of desire. There was Jasmine, full of intangible charm, refined and delicate as a Schubert melody; Geranium, curiously reminiscent of withered loves; unblended Ambergris, that had the power to excite the most anaemic virgins; Civet; Saffron; Benzoin; Stephanotis; Kiss-me-quick; Frangipanni; Cul-me-to-you; Bouquet des Amours; Peau d'Espagne; Fleur d'Amour; Jicky; Bouquet Largillerie; Jardin de mon Curé; and Bosom-Caresser." from Count Fanny's Nuptials by Simon Arrow, 1907

It's been a fragrant week in my garden, with Miami's hot and humid summer providing a richness of blooms that are almost - almost - overwhelming.  The dozen or more blooming trees and shrubs have provided a lot of materials for tinctures and enfleurages.  It's very satisfying being an alchemist perfumer, transforming the botanical fragrance into a liquid, usable fragrance.  Then there's the next step in alchemy, the synergy of artfully blending those liquids into a beautiful perfume.  If you have any questions about any of these steps, leave a comment.

   Click to view larger image I love perfume, and I love design and I love fierce, and they all come together in this fan.  It was created by artist Sylvain le Guen for the Anniversary crystal edition of perfumer Francis Kurkdjian's perfume.  The fan was, of course, scented with the perfume.  It may be viewed at the The Fan Museum in London. 12 Crooms Hill, Greenwich, London SE10 8ER. Of course Lond has a fan museum!  Wouldn't you love one of these?  Do you think it's inspiring you to make a similar one, of your own design?