Posts

Anya's Garden Sale - Thank You + Anniversary

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It is my pleasure to announce the first-ever sale on the perfumes of Anya's Garden. The sale is in celebration of three happy events: the six-month anniversary of the launch of Anya's Garden, and the wonderful success of the perfumes, which are lovingly reviewed on forums such as Perfume of Life, MakeUpAlley and others, and the appreciative notes from customers, who write to say how the perfumes create a mood, bring back a memory of a warm summery place, or as in the case of Fairchild, take them to an intoxicating salty, flowery shore in the tropics. This is what a perfumer aims for, at least I do. Not just to create a pretty or exotic fragrance, but to create one that evokes a soulful response, or in the case of Pan, as it has been reported, a real pheromonal response from men. Pan is a hit with the ladies who do not mind a slightly masculine scent, and among gay men, where it is a cult favorite. The ladies say the men flock around them, or give them appreciative stares in p...

Ban on Citrus in Perfumes?

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 Cropwatch's latest newsletter reports on the latest madness from bureaucracy run amok regarding perfume and fragrances. http://www.artisannaturalperfumers.org/news.htm You can download the pdf, all 18 pages of the strange, sad story.

First Press Coverage for Anya's Garden Perfumes

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I got a call two months ago from an associate editor at Palm Beach Cottages and Gardens Magazine, published by Conde Nast. She said they wanted to put a bit in their "What's New" section for the March issue. The magazine came out on Friday, and I got my copy in the mail today. Pretty good coverage for a perfume line that was only officially launched in December. Click here and follow the link to see my homemade photo positioned above a $730,000 Mont Blanc pen!

Focusing on the Network to Protect Our Rights to Use Natural Products

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 Time for a break from blogging again. Time to network more with the people around the globe who are aghast at the bad science, bad attitude and outright bias that International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and also the European Union (EU) are exhibiting towards natural perfume materials. Just when natural products are enjoying a 20% annual rise in sales, and traditional products only 3-4% rise, they want to severely limit our access too these gorgeous, lovely natural aromatics. Yes, perhaps some essential oils or absolutes, if used in an excessive amount *may* cause a rash in in some people; wine causes allergies, too, but we don't see the EU limiting it, or banning it. My time has been eaten up by the learning curve necessary to work on this. On Sunday I had to take a few hours to cobble together a printout for an esteemed ethnobotanist and natural perfumer because he is without a computer, and I couldn't just send him links to websites. ...

It's the synthetics, stupid. (to quote an American political slogan"

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Tony Burfield's recent work challenging IFRA and the EU has forced them to show their hand, and here is the plain, awful truth, which Tony said all along was their agenda: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/news/printNewsBis.asp?id=74667 They're insisting that synths are good, and naturals are bad and expensive. Baloney (well, ok, some naturals are expensive, let the market find it's own level.) Funny they cite Calone: it was the first perfume ingredient that ever caused a respiratory reaction from me. For my entire life, despite dousing myself in perfumes that yes, contained some synths, when Calone was introduced, it, and the other harsh synths that followed, caused both me and a lot of the general public to rebel against heavy, harsh perfumes. I had no idea what, at that time, had changed perfume, I just knew everyone was complaining. Before that, I remember people would complain someone was wearing "too much" perfume, but after the age of harsh synths came...

Tony Burfield's Letter to IFRA regarding the petition and issues surrounding the 40th Amendment

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 1st March 2007 Dear Sirs, Please find attached the petition posted up at http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/ifra40/ http://www.cropwatch.org/40thpetition.htm . You will note that there are approx. 740 signatories to date, including perfumers, natural perfumers, MD's of aroma ingredient companies, aroma technicians, academicians, soap makers, staff from cosmetic & natural products companies as well as natural products commodity end-users from countries as diverse as Russia, Iceland & USA. There are a number of anonymous signatories, and to avoid any unfair accusations of ballot-rigging or signature duplication, we are quite willing to submit the owner's version of this petition (which reveals fuller identity details), to an independent 3rd party (who will need to agree to absolute confidentiality), if the need should arise. I think you if you read the comments section of the petition - scroll through http://www.ipetitions.com/petit...

First European Natural Perfumery Conference

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Another of the short, fun, or informative posts I've been making for the past few days...here's some great news. Several of the European natural perfumers are taking action and proposing a NP conference in the next year to year and a half in Europe. It's very exciting to see the energy and interest and I just wanted to post a short note about it to put the word out there into the Universe. It seems they'll probably meet informally to plan the event, to get to know each other and work out details, and then finalize the conference details. More announcements to follow. We're discussing this in my Yahoo group,linked in the right column, if anyone cares to chime in and join in.

Which Norse God or Goddess are You? Just having some weekend fun .... Freya is looking down lovingly at the little boy in the previous blog post ;-)

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You scored as Freya . You Scored 100% as Freya Which Norse God or Goddess are you most like? created with QuizFarm

Boy, do I need a respite from all this political stuff

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 I need to relax. Next week I'm going to post on frivolous, fun, fragrant stuff. The IFRA/EU Global Harmonization is coming, it'll change the way, or the ability, to continue business for many artisan perfumers. I'll work on it behind the scenes, but yowza, it's really taken a chunk of my personal and business life working on all these issues. I did have a great, fun Valentine's Day, great restaurant, South Beach cruising, and a preview of the huge boat show in town this weekend, and I realized that was the first day I've taken off in weeks! This Libra needs to catch up on her lovin' and loungin' ;-) Tuberose, jasmine, neroli, petitgrain, beeswax, ambergris, pandanus, jamrosa, ambrette, etc., etc....gotta get back to the basics.

UPDATE Feb. 15, 2007 Cropwatch v. IFRA 40th Amendment Poll Reopened -- no, actually, it's been closed unceremoniously

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 POLL CLOSED AGAIN. No explanation, no links left. So, the following post is moot, but the situation is interesting. Perfumer and Flavorist magazine has decided to extend the poll by reopening it for votes. The new deadline is March 5th. You can read the editor's letter about this at: http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/news/5761601.html At first I thought the original poll was going to be tossed out for the new one, but the editor assured me today that the results are being carried over. You can't vote this time if you voted previously, which is not spelled out on the website, so if you have already voted, and care about the issue, circulate this information to other interested folks. You have to go to the main page to vote. Anyway the new results go, it looks good for Tony and Cropwatch http://cropwatch.org David (Cropwatch) is really nipping at Goliath's (IFRA/EU) heel, and them not accepting the results of this unscientific (Allured...

Press Release and FAQ issued on Boycott of IFRA's 40th Amendment

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STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 Please note that there is a detailed FAQ on this issue, linked at the end of the press release. -Boycott Called to Halt Adoption of International Fragrance Association’s (IFRA) 40 th Amendment by UK-based Watchdog Organization Cropwatch Gains Momentum with Online Poll and Petition. Online poll by Perfumer and Flavorist newsletter P&F now shows a landslide for Cropwatch with 85.1% of the vote. -USA- based Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild joins in effort to Demand Opening the Process Up for Public Input and Review of the Process before thousands of small perfumery and toiletry businesses are adversely affected by restrictive, unfair compliance standards. FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: MIAMI SHORES, Fla./February 8, 2007.  On February 7, 2007, fragrance and flavor trade magazine Perfumer & Flavorist released the results of an online poll showing 85.1% of readers in favor of boycotting proposed fragrance industry guidelines that will h...

Perfumer and Flavorist Poll on Cropwatch v. IFRA Issue

The industry magazine Perfumer and Flavorist is running a poll until February 7th on the boycott that Cropwatch has called for against the IFRA 40th Amendment. Cropwatch is trying to get IFRA to allow discussion of the proposed amendment before it is automatically adopted. If you click on the P&F website here scroll down to the lower left corner of the page to vote. You can read more about the issues in my post Freedom to Choose, below. STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008

Freedom to Choose -- and Use -- as Informed Consumers - STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008

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Headline: EU Issues Plastic Bubble Pods for Everyone - Protection from Everything Guaranteed OK, let's get serious. STOP THE FDA GLOBALIZATION ACT OF 2008 Fir st thing I must state is that no natural perfumer, or traditional perfumer I know, desires that any product they create would cause a rash, irritation, allergy or respiratory problem in the consumer. Or themselves, for that matter, since we deal with the essences every day. The user of natural aromatics, whether they are for personal or professional use just wants something that smells wonderful, puts them in a good mood, and has that deeply wonderful gestalt that only comes from nature. We also recognize that some naturals can cause problems because of their chemical makeup. They're also after some synth oils created in a lab, but I'm here to focus on the naturals, since they let a lot of the synths slid into use without proper review. Are you a niche, boutique perfumer who uses either all natural aromatics, or, p...

Pricing - A Cautionary Tale

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Ahhhh...the smell of money. As intoxicating and seductive as a gorgeous natural perfume....but....your business skills have to match your blending skills, and your PR skills may also be called upon if you're caught with your pants down, and your bottom line down even further due to bad planning. Pricing your product is a tricky business, and you have to take many current and future variables into account: Materials Labor R&D Loss Rent & Overhead Advertising Website Contract Manufacturing Employees FICA, taxes etc., etc. So many homegrown businesses start to fail when they start to grow because the owner didn't factor all of the above, plus some I've forgotten to list because I'm jotting this message down in between many errands today, so, basically, their success kills the business. Many of us won't reveal how we arrive at our price point. It's just too complicated, too personal. If you're really serious, and you wish for your business to grow beyon...