Sunday, November 07, 2010

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, November 7, 2010 - until 10 PM EST

Turning the clock back has me up early, and I'll get you are, too, with perfumery questions. Ask away!


  1. Hi Anya!

    I know that a week passed when I write to you :) and it seams like I write you every other day :)

    Hope you are fine. I hope people are signing for the courses :)

    Regarding digital scale that we discussed last Sunday... do you think I can measure drop of essential oil with digital scale that can measure 0,01 g? Should I search for 0.001? Which one do you have?

    Kind regards!

  2. Hi Ankica:

    You should go for the 0.001. Perhaps buy a low-range for that, say 0.001 to 50gms, and then have a more suitable scale of 0.01 to 600gms for creating compounds.

  3. Hi Anya,

    I was looking through the Yahoo group files for a lily of the valley doppleganger accord, and then I thought of you. Could you suggest which notes to use?

    Best of the best,

  4. Felicia, the lily of the valley scent has never appealed to me much, so I never paid attention to the chemical constituents so as to blend a doppelganger. Do you have some old perfumery texts? They may have "recipes" that include synths, but with tweaking, you can figure what naturals might have the scent profile of the synth they cite. I'm not much of a believer in following "recipes" or formulas, but since you may be, I'll see if I can find one in one of my texts and copy it for you here.

  5. Here's from Askinson, and the c/p from the PDF messed up some of the words, but I think you can figure it out.:


    Extracot f jasmine. 28o z.

    Extract of orange flower 7 oz.

    f Extracot f rose ; 14o z.

    Extract of tuberose 7 oz.

    ; Alcohol ...» 28 oz.

    ! Lily, syn. (Bush) -.. 2 oz.


    '" Extraoctfj asmine ..... 3^ oz.

    | Extraocfyt lang-y(lasenbege lopw.2 , 06).........}.4 o z.

    " Cardamom seed crushed 75 g rains,

    Oil of orris ......... 10 drops.

    I Lilyo ft hev alleys,y n "* * iram*

    I Maceratefo r a week,a nd f ilter.

    The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighted exactly.

    should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.

    From Diete - this looks promising, but the raw materials are pricey:

    Extrait muguet (lily of the valley). Extracts No. 1
    from Pomm. Jonquille 750 drachms, from Pomm. Jasmin
    100, from Pomm. Tubereuse 200, and from Pomm.
    Acacia and Pomm. Orange each 100 ; bergamot oil 7}
    drachms, oil of lemons 2}, angelica oil 3 drops, storax
    tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 2}, vanilla tincture 5,
    ambergris tincture 2, ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen
    tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil tincture 2J.

    I'll let it to you to copy and sort out the jumbled c/p ;-)

  6. Hi Anya,

    I have a follow-up question, if I may: could you please recommend a resource (book? online?) that gives the chemical constituents of the scents various natural substances, both essential oils and those flowers that don't lend themselves to processing?


  7. Felicia, I'd first turn to Arctander's for *some* of that information. I don't really look for that info that much, so I'm drawing a bit of a blank right now. I find a lot of it for essential oils in Guenther's six volumes, Gildemeister's and then more on absolutes, in Parry's Cyclopedia of Perfumery. I'm thinking there are some aromatherapy books that are quite good at listing the chems of essential oils. Probably some of Schnaubelt's.


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