Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, October 24, 2010 - 10 a.m. to 10 PM EST

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I'll be here on and off all day to answer your perfumery questions. Hope y'all are enjoying the weather and having fun!

Comments

  1. Ankica10/24/2010 11:15 AM

    Hi Anya,

    how are you? Busy? :) Relaxed? :)

    I was just looking at data on your/our yahoo group but I don't know if info is updated... I read recently that some suppliers of raw materials aren't good as they use to be...

    Which company that sells EO's (absolutes, CO2...) would you recommend? Top 3? :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. KnitPicky19910/24/2010 11:28 AM

    My question - I have been studying perfumery for a short time... and being half french this intrigues me! But, I find that I can only use the essential oils and a few fragrance oils because the newer modern scents contain aldehydes which can not be bought. How do you get around that? And... what is your favourite "go to perfumery book"? .. Thank You...

    ReplyDelete
  3. Unknown10/24/2010 12:46 PM

    Happy ATP day,
    What would be the best plants to grow and process as an enfleurage?
    I am near San Diego, and plan to grow inside and out. I know you have your own garden in south Florida.

    Hope you get some time to relax!
    Denise

    ReplyDelete
  4. AnyasGardenPerfumes10/24/2010 1:26 PM

    Hi Ankica:

    Busy morning, already working over the 'Net with my new bookkeeper, and had my engineer in house for a hour and a half working on blending spreadsheet program!

    At this time, I only recommend Guild suppliers due to many mishaps with others, because the others either messed up an order, or had inferior quality. The Guild suppliers are vetted, and you can find them at http://naturalperfumers.com/suppliers.htm Some are in the EU, which could be of benefit to you ;-)

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  5. AnyasGardenPerfumes10/24/2010 1:37 PM

    Carole, welcome to blending!

    I don't use fragrance oils, so I can't address that.

    Some natural aromatics are aldehydic, like cinnamon, and there are natural isolates that are aldehydes like citronella. I believe you just joined the NP Yahoo group, and I recommend you get into a discussion there and ask about aldehydes.

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  6. AnyasGardenPerfumes10/24/2010 1:39 PM

    Hi Denise:

    In your climate, I would recommend enfleuraging gardenia and tuberose, two of the most beautiful florals. California has growers who can supply you with gardenia flowers at a good price. You'll get "seconds" that don't look at perfects as "firsts" but they smell just the same! I'm only suggesting buying to supplement your initial start up crop, since you need to "recharge" the enfleurage trays often to get optimum scent extraction.

    Tuberose is easy to grow, and you pick the flowers unopened. Again, they need to be recharged on the tray.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Sheree Tompkins10/24/2010 7:01 PM

    Good evening Anya,

    If you were to tincture or extract in oil some ambrette seeds, what ratios would you do so at?

    All good things,
    Sheree

    ReplyDelete
  8. AnyasGardenPerfumes10/24/2010 8:11 PM

    Sheree, Arctander recommends 25%, and I stick by that, so if I use 25% seeds, 75% alcohol or oil. IF you use oil, don't crush the seeds, it will go rancid in the end. Not a problem if you use alcohol. Very different scents from crushed v. uncrushed, btw.

    ReplyDelete

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