Ask the Perfumer Sunday Oct 21, 2012
Ask the Perfumer - and an Ambergris hypothesis Guild member Lisa Coburn posted a link on Facebook that took me to a video on how cephalopods--squid, cuttlefish and octopus, are masters of disguise. As I watched it, I made a perfume connection, straight to the elusive, mysterious, rare and valued ambergris, a gorgeous material used in perfumery. Photo of the famed 'Yeti' chunk of ambergris. Ambergris is produced by the stomach/intestinal secretions of the sperm whale to protect its insides from the sharp beaks of the squid and cuttlefish, two main items in its diet. The whale evacuates the chunk of ambergris when it becomes large enough to be an irritant on its own, albeit a softer, rounder irritant compared to the beak and cartilage of the squid or cuttlefish. As a perfumer, I often have to gently remind excitable newbies ;-) that the scent of the ambergris is secondary to its major contribution to a perfume, which is its ability to 'marry' and a...
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ReplyDeleteHurrah and thank you for saying this. I am just an amateur perfume aficionado, but I am quite dismayed by IFRA's actions (the little I know about them). Bad science? I'll have to take your word for this, as I haven't the time to look into it. More and more, I am drawn to the artisans (also vintage) and less to the industrial.
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