Ask the Perfumer July 28, 2013 Tincturing the Fragrant Harvest
Originally published July 28, 2013 I was digging up some old photos for a writing project, and this one of Jasmine sambac Grand Duke of Tuscany is from 2005. I used a thumbnail of it on the original naturalperfumery.com website that was launched that year. The thumbnail is an ironic term here since it features my thumbnail! What huge flowers from the Grand Duke! Many are the size of small carnations, which they remind people of, due to their tightly-clustered petals. The window to harvest this flower is small since they’re slow to ripen to the proper stage for harvesting, and then, boom, overnight, it seems, they start to turn brown. A gorgeous, intensely-fragrant slow-growing jasmine. So many of the white flowers produce an orangey-brown absolute or tincture, have you noticed that? Jasmines and gardenias, Michelia, and lotus come to mind. When I pop Michelia alba flowers into a tincture, the menstruum turns reddish-brown immediately!...