Brave New Scents - A Natural Perfumers Guild Project - Royal Lotus Perfume from Anya's Garden
The Outlaw Perfumers are honoring the aromatics of the 21st Century
Nothing says innovation like using materials that are cutting edge. We realized that many new aromatics had been brought to market since the year 2000 - things like lilac CO2, gardenia absolute, aglaia flower and many more. Also appearing were previously-unknown to the artisan niche community of perfumers fragrant beauties like linden flower CO2, wild rose absolute and yuzu essential oil.
Many of the perfumers in the Guild, myself included, were making fragrant tinctures of rare and stunning aromatic materials, from freeze-dried strawberries to obscure jasmines.
So, what's an Outlaw Perfumer to do? Gather those lovelies, and include materials like lotus absolutes, which weren't used by traditional perfumers, but were in use in India for many years, and create some Brave New Scents, unfettered by IFRA.
My muse was ancient India, brought into the present, once again (remember Kewdra from the Mystery of Musk project)? I chose pink and blue lotus and the extrememly rare night queen absolute (aka Night-blooming jasmine, Cestrum nocturnun) for my heart. Night queen absolute is so rare, this perfume may be, due to lack of any more NQ absolute coming to market, a very limited edition.
My Royal Lotus perfume is a 21st Century-specific design, containing only one wildcard from the 20th Century, a particularly glorious clementine essential oil.
I realized as I was making modifications on the blue and pink lotuses, that several of my aromatics had royal names associated with them, so I changed the name from Purple Lotus to Royal Lotus. It is a sweet and beguiling perfume, with a citrus cocktail opening that evolves into a slightly smoky rich and luxurious floral. The smoke dissipates, and a seamless floral extravaganza unfolds for hours. The sandalwood, tonka and ambergris base is lush and smooth, like the feel of a royal silken garment.
A slight spray of this unctuous perfume in your hair will reward you with at least 24 hours of floral and coumarinic, sandalwoody pleasure.
Top notes:
Wild orange from the Dominican Republic
Yuzu from Korea
Orange Juice EO from Brazil
Clementine from the USA (my 20th Century wildcard)
Heart Notes:
Blue Lotus Absolute from Thailand
Blue Lotus concrete from India
Pink Lotus concrete from India
Queen of the Night absolute(Cestrum notcurnum, aka night-blooming jasmine) from India
Queen of the Night tincture from my garden
Jasmine grandiflorum aka the King of Jasmines tincture from my garden
Jasmine sambac Grand Duke of Tuscany tincture from my garden
Orange Flower tincture from my garden
Base Notes:
Sandalwood from Australia
Ambergris absolute from Utah
Tonka bean absolute from France
Please visit the other participating sites for this project, and enjoy your journey through some Brave New Scents!
The participating perfumers are:
Adam Gottshalk of Lord Jester
Ambrosia Jones of Perfume by Nature
Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden
Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume
Christi Meshell of Matriarch
Elise Pearlstine of Belly Flowers
Jane Cate of Wing and a Prayer Perfume
JoAnne Bassett of JoAnne Bassett Perfumes
Liz Cook of One Seed Company
Rohanna Goodwin Smith of A Scent Natural Perfumes
Participating Bloggers are:
The Perfume Critic
Feminine Things
The Portland Examiner
Perfume Shrine
All I Am A Redhead
Adam Gottshalk of Lord Jester
Ambrosia Jones of Perfume by Nature
Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden
Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume
Christi Meshell of Matriarch
Elise Pearlstine of Belly Flowers
Jane Cate of Wing and a Prayer Perfume
JoAnne Bassett of JoAnne Bassett Perfumes
Liz Cook of One Seed Company
Rohanna Goodwin Smith of A Scent Natural Perfumes
Participating Bloggers are:
The Perfume Critic
Feminine Things
The Portland Examiner
Perfume Shrine
All I Am A Redhead
Yum! I'm wearing your Royal Lotus and I'm pleasantly surprised by the tenacity. Such lovely notes and amazing staying power! It's perfect, Anya!
ReplyDeleteChristi, you're so sweet to leave a comment. When I put on your Carmine I actually called someone up to tell them how pretty it is! I adore kewda, and the entire perfume spoke to me. I'm so glad your talents will get wider audiences now ;-)
ReplyDeleteSounds amazing Anya! Is the list of the 21st century materials you had to choose from going to be posted anywhere? I would love to see what you all had the option to work with!
ReplyDeleteHow does ambergris absolute come fr Utah? It's a landlocked state. Is it processed there & the ambergris itself is harvested elsewhere?
ReplyDeleteIntriguing scent descriptions.
Yes, it was processed there. This is typical geographic designation in the industry. For instance, you'll often see that tonka bean is from France. Of course, it can't grow there, it's a tropical tree, but when a French manufacturer processes it there, it's said to be from France. I was wondering how long it would take someone to notice that, and congratulations, you're the first! The project launched on Oct 1st, so it took 26 days and an inquiring mind.
ReplyDelete