Sunday, December 12, 2010

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 10 a.m. to 10 PM EST

Got the blending blues?  Can't figure out what the filter is going on? Ask away.  I'll see if I can be of assistance with your perfumery questions.


  1. Greetings Anya,
    When making oil based the dilution ratio the same as in alcohol? If I pre-dilute something like vetiver, labdanum or patchouli to 10% in alcohol....would I use the same ratio in oil? If not, what would be your suggested ratio for the dilution of strong scents in oil and.....what would your suggestion be for the ratio of an eo perfume blend to oils for a final oil based perfume be? Also, I wonder if it is appropriate to ask about a specific supplier on this forum.

  2. I have done some dilutions of Labdanum and Beeswax ab in alcohol and there is some residue at the bottom of the bottle. Would I want to remove the alcohol from that bottle or is it okay to leave alcohol with the residue in there. I guess my concern is that the 10% dilution I did will become stronger over time since the residue is there, therefore possibly giving me some inconsistancies later as I try and blend more of a given creation. What is your thought on this?

  3. Hi Sheree:

    No, the ratios can change, especially with the top notes, which you don't ask about. Top and middle notes tend to be dampened in oil, so I would dilute them at a much higher ratio.

    You must use your own nose to determine what are the strong scents - you've mentioned three so far, and dilute them to your specs.

    I'm not sure what you mean by your last question about ratios in a final oil perfume.

    I will only discuss Guild suppliers here, since I can vouch for them. HTH.

  4. Hi Sheree:

    They won't become stronger over time, but it is a good practice to filter everything clear (a practice I don't always follow myself!)

    That way, you can guarantee you always have a ready-to-use clear product on hand when you have to blend something quickly. Pulling up some gunk accidentally with the pipette is no fun.

  5. HI Anya,

    do you have knowledge regarding some illnesses and aromatherapy?
    Could you suggest some oils for psoriasis?
    I would like to blend them for skin care and hopefully reduction of psoriasis...

  6. Hi Anya,
    Thank you for your reply. I hope I can clairify my question. eo blend added to alcohol at different ratios will yeild either a perfume@20-30% eo's to 70-80% alcohol, cologne @ 15-20%or an aftershave @ 2-5% ratio. So, if I am blending a finished eo blend into oils to create a oil based perfume..(liquid or solid) is there a % range that I would want to add my eo blend to the oils?

  7. Good Sunday Morn,
    How does one know what essence should be refrigerated? I know the citrus's should be. You mentioned refrigerating Boronia, I would not of known that. Is it possible that you can't go wrong in refrigeration?


  8. Well, Sheree, those ratios are just ballpark, depending on the level of intensity of the blend. It's very subjective, and only your nose can decide. You have to be discriminating and able to make the decision.

    For example, I have a perfume extrait strength perfume that is only 18% aromatics, below the "traditional" ratio you cite. Yet, it is a perfume, not an EdP. All depends on the intensity factor.

  9. Citrus, needle oils, blue oils, many costly absolutes and fragile EOs should be refrigerated. I don't understand your last question.

  10. Hi Ankica:

    Sorry, I can't help you there. This is a perfumery, not aromatherapy forum. First, though, I would say check with a doctor for a correct diagnosis if you haven't already, then maybe search aromatherapy forums and the internet for natural cures. HTH.

  11. Morning Anya!

    I have seen this used many times when reading about perfuming.
    "perfume extrait strength" I don't understand the term extrait. Is it pure EOs blended? Why is it an extrait and not a formula or blend?
    Could you explain this term a bit more layman terms for me? Thank you Anya!

  12. Hi Carole

    There are varying percentage of aromatics in a perfume, typically expressed in the terms perfume extrait (aka perfume), Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, etc., in descending order of strength.

    Extrait or perfume or parfum simply means it has the highest percentage of aromatics to alcohol for that particular perfume. A little more diluted, with maybe more alcohol or some water, and it's an Eau de Parfum, a little more, Eau de Toilette, and so on.

    Some extraits may have a touch of water, btw.

    The term is not used to describe pure EOs or absolutes, which may be a blend, but are also just a compound until properly diluted in alcohol (and perhaps a bit of water to the corresponding strengths mentioned above) in which case it all becomes known as juice.

  13. To clarify, are there essences that should never be refrigerated?
    Or if in doubt, refrigerate!



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