Posts

Allured Books 30% off Summer Sale

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SHARE with your perfumer and B&B friends - Allured Books is again offering a great discount to make your summer cool! Read below: SUMMER DISCOUNT: 30% through September 15, 2012 Coupon Code:anya30 All Alluredbooks including new ones below. A few sample pages on the title page (links below) will help youdecide if the book is right for you. Of course - Arctander Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin- still in stock! http://www.alluredbooks.com/Fragrance-Creation/Arctander-s-Perfume-and-Flavor-Materials-of-Natural-Origin.html New Books: Coloring the Cosmetic World http://www.alluredbooks.com/Coloring-the-Cosmetic-World-Using-Pigments-in-Decorative-Cosmetic-Formulations.html Practical Modern Hair Science http://www.alluredbooks.com/Practical-Modern-Hair-Science.html Essential Oils Volume 9 http://www.alluredbooks.com/Fragrance-Creation/Essential-Oils-Vol-9-2008-2011.html Preservatives for Cosmetics (regulatory and preservatives may be of special interest.)

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, June 24, 2012 - until 10 PM EST

Take a break from your fun summer (or winter, if you're in the Southern Hemisphere) activities and Ask the Perfumer your questions about any aspect of perfumery.

Perfumers Will Relate

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  Horst P. Horst: Lisa Hands With Vase and Flowers, 1941 I just love it.

Nothing New Under the Sun: Adulteration of Essential Oils for Perfumery - Sophisticated Trickery

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I was looking for vintage aromatics on eBay, and came across the ad, below. I didn't save the image, so I googled and found the one above.   It seems that the firm of Magnus Mabee and Reynard was sued for adulterating their oils in 1914, and they lost.  The history of the herb and spice trade, and then the essential oils/absolutes/attars trade have historically been rife with adulteration.  I learned about this when as an undergraduate, completing studies in economic botany I found out that the word "sophistication" had its roots in this price-gouging, false-advertising practice.  From Dictionary.com:  so·phis·ti·cat·ed [ s uh - fis -ti-key-tid ]   adjective (after what you would expect, i.e., worldly), comes: 3. deceptive; misleading. and sophisticate - verb (used with object) 3. to make less natural, simple, or ingenuous; make worldly-wise. 4. to alter; pervert: to sophisticate a meaning beyond recognition.   Here's the recent ad that spa

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, June 17, 2012 - until 10 PM EST

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Tahitian Gardenia Vietnamese gardenia The photos are of the Vietnamese and Tahitian gardenias growing in my front garden in Miami Shores.  I've been making enfleurage pomade from them, and it is heavenly!  I just added two new tiny varieties of the Tahitian gardenia to my collection - Heaven Scent.  They're double flowered! My co-author and I are in the midst of writing all the extraction secrets up for my book, Perfume From Your Garden.  We're at opposite ends of the country, so we'll have most growing zones covered. Today is Ask the Perfumer Sunday, and I'll be here until 10PM ET to answer your perfumery questions.

The Natural Perfumery Group on Yahoo is Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary June 14, 2012

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PRESS RELEASE:  June 14, 2012 (Miami Shores, Florida, USA) On June 14, 2002, natural perfumer Anya McCoy founded the Natural Perfumery group on Yahoo!.  She had several goals in mind: promote the ideals of 100% natural perfume; establish files, links, databases, archives and other materials that would establish a strong educational foundation for members; and hold standards of friendly discussion and respect for other's ideas paramount to maintain a helpful, sharing group. The group now has over 2300 members, and those goals have been met and surpassed. The Natural Perfumery group on Yahoo was founded on June 14, 2002 by Natural Perfumery icon Anya McCoy and is the largest perfumery group of its type worldwide. The group website health.groups.yahoo.com/group/NaturalPerfumery/ has been the center of the growth of the natural perfumery world during its dynamic growth ph

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, June 10, 2012 - until 10 PM EST

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I never can get enough of these tiny, highly-fragrant Aglaia odorata flowers!  They're blooming right now in hot, hot, humid Miami, and will bloom just about once a month. The Ask the Perfumer forum is open for questions until 10 PM ET today.  Any question about perfumery, from raw materials to making tinctures, supplies, etc., is welcome.

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, June 3, 2012 - until 10 PM EST

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Tahitian gardenia in Anya's Garden My Tahitian gardenia plant is flowering like crazy!  It's in its second year and really taking off.  I just got two tiny Tahitian gardenia *double* flowering plants that will be in the ground soon. I'll be here until 10 PM ET tonight for any perfuming questions you have.  Stay cool - it's going to be way over 90F here today (Tahitian gardenia weather).

My First Love - The Sixth Anniversary of the Natural Perfumers Guild Blogging Event

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Fan carved from sandalwood Santalum album  -  even the botanical name is beautiful and strong. If rose and jasmine are feminine, sandalwood is strongly, sexily, masculine.  All male. And I fell hard for “him” from the first sniff.  Here’s my decades-long love/lust story, and I’m sorry to say it might not have a happy ending. Sandalwood Mala bead necklace I didn’t get my first bottle of sandalwood oil until I was 18 or so.  I already had some patchouli, as it was the scent of choice for hippies, and if I had some oils from the racks in hippie stores, they’re long forgotten, and I now know they were probably synthetic.  One day I was helping someone unpack some imported goods in the back of the store, and some of the merchandise was from India.  There were lovely colorful glass beads strung into necklaces that were woven from brass wire. Then I found a packet of scented wooden beads made into jewelry.  I’ll always associate the glass green/aqua necklace and the crimson red o

Summerscent - A Thai "Jasmine Tree" is a new addition to Anya's Garden Perfumes

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Ruffled, delicate Summerscent blooms Do you love the fragrance of blooming michelia or ylang ylang flowers?  Then you'll love this pretty flowering plant, sometimes called Summerscent or dwarf tree jasmie.  Radermachera kunming is a rare plant, not often found in garden centers.  It starts blooming when only 1 - 2' tall, and mine little plant in a pot is full of blooms and buds.  The sweet scent, and at least now, with it's first big summer flush of flowers, doesn't smell like jasmine.  It's much more like the piercing sweet floral fruity scent of michelia or ylang ylang flowers. It has large cluster of buds ready to open when the current flowers fade.  I'm going to start picking the flowers for enfleurage today. Summerscent is loaded with juicy buds ready to follow in a fragrant succession of blooms Seeing that it's native to Thailand, it is a tropical plant, and you either need to live in a tropical or subtropical area to grow it outside, or have

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, May 20, 2012 - until 10 PM EST

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 I'll be here for your perfumery questions until 10 PM EST.  In the meantime, here's an update on Little Frankie - Little Frankie out of the shipping box Dec. 2011 Little Frankie May 2012 So many fragrant flowers are in bloom here at Casa Jasmin!  A neighbor walking his dog stopped to mention the fragrance, and I pointed out several of the beauties responsible for scenting my street. But perhaps the sweetest victory, unscented, is the thriving health of Little Frankie, my frankincense sacra plant.  He arrived defoliated, looking like a sick little stick in December, and how he's sprouting out all over.  Typical of frankincense "trees" he's going to have a weird, twisted shape that is just fine with me.  I care about his health, and the wonderful chance to nurture such a rare historical plant. 

Natural Isolates and the Natural Perfumer - Being the Captain of Your Own Fragrant Ship

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Get a cup of coffee or tea - this is a long blog post, with lots of twists and turns and surprises - good surprises!  Please see the blog post yesterday on the Guild member vote on the definition of natural isolates if you have not already read it. Backstory Do you ever wonder why I never taught a course in natural isolates or began to sell them on my website? After all, I was the pioneer natural perfumer who first used them in my MoonDance and StarFlower perfumes, both best sellers and award winners. Something told me that I needed to do a lot more research because a wrong move, the wrong isolate sold, could ruin the creations of lots of perfumes made by my (natural perfumer) customers. I have a duty as a trusted authority in natural perfumery, a person who heads the Natural Perfumers Guild, and who started a Yahoo discussion group on natural perfumeryin 2002, to be responsible and proceed slowly. Currently there are no regulations that address natural isolates, or even

Definition of Natural Isolates for Fragrance Determined by Members of the Natural Perfumers Guild by a Majority Vote

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The Natural Perfumers Guild, the world’s largest organization for natural perfumery, is defining the scope of natural aromatics in accord with the vision of our art. Natural isolates are aromatics consisting of odor molecules from natural materials. Members voted on what constitutes a natural isolate to meet challenges to the "naturalness" of isolates. The Guild position serves to guide members and to assure the public of the Guild’s commitment to high standards of the art of natural perfumery. The Guild's standard exceeds ISO 9235, the International Organization of Standardization publication on standards for aromatic raw materials. Miami, FL, May 15, 2012 --( PR.com )-- The Natural Perfumers Guild, the largest organization of natural perfumers in the world, is defining the scope of natural aromatic isolates in order to assist its professional natural perfumers as they move forward with their desire to use these scent materials. Natural isolates ar

The roses of perfume and the garden - their scents

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I intended to write the backstory of the Guild's vote on the adopted definition of natural isolates today because of the press release going out today, but it's a huge post, and I need to proof it.  In the meantime, I wanted to offer you this eye candy of roses and their scents just for the sheer enjoyment of it. They're from Martha Steward magazine, and I found them floating on the internet.

What if there was no print/label to ID perfumes or spices? I know my nose would work, what about yours?

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I have a well-trained Scent Memory, and I provide my students at the Natural Perfumery Institute with the tools to link the nose, hand, mind via specific exercises and recording forms to train themselves. Scent Memory is a valuable tool! Here's an interesting story.  Hewlett Packard convinced a town in the USA to do without print for a week.  This experiment was also conducted in India and Singapore, and the two quotes from those locales are what surprised me.  The woman in Singapore though her perfumes smelled different when she didn't have the labels to ID them, and a man in India complained that his mother-in-law didn't cook for the week because she didn't know what spices were what! Yes, I would be confused in a supermarket if all the labels were removed - who wouldn't - but my sense of smell would definitely get me through the perfume confusion, as I have so many raw materials and perfumes committed to Scent Memory.  I wouldn't have any problems with

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, May 13, 2012

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Dear Friends: There will be no Ask the Perfumer forum today, as it is Mother's day in the USA and my mother died just six weeks ago.  I will spend the day quietly.  I wish all love and good wishes towards those of you who still have your mothers.  Here is a photo of my mother taken June, 1966 when she was 46 years old.  I couldn't bring myself to write a tribute to her today, as I have been very sad all week.  However, if there was a one sentence tribute, it would be that she is the one who introduced me to my first passion, perfume, and that has stayed with me every day of my life.

Natural Perfumery Institute - new logo and textbook edit

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The New Logo for The Natural Perfumery Institute click here: http://Perfume Classes.com I found a delightful graphic designer to work with, and she quickly helped me make my vision for the rebranding logo for what was formerly Anya's Garden Natural Perfumery Institute into the Natural Perfumery Institute.  The website will also go a redesign, a minor one, incorporating the logo. I'll use the word delightful again to describe my Consulting Editor Andrine Olson because she is a delight to work with as we go through the textbook for its fourth edition.  We found some minor typos this time around, and we are clearing up some language to make the book even more student-friendly.  Andrine worked for major corporations as a technical editor, and also taught courses to engineers, many of who did not speak English as a first language.  She brought those talents to my textbook, and in going over it, page by page, I was stunned, once again, at the clarity and depth and br

Ask the Perfumer Sunday May 6, 2012

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There's still a little bit of rose centifolia wafting over from last week.  Ian of Shirley Price Aromatherapy sent a detailed comment to the blog after hours.  You might like to read it here .  Just scroll down the comments to find Ian's comment. My garden is alive with the fragrance of so many gorgeous blooming plants right now!  All the jasmines, the Brunfelsia (nighttime clove/carnation scent), the Tahitian and Vietnamese gardenias, and of course, the dependable Aglaia odorata - Chinese Perfume tree.  It sometimes seems this tree only takes a tiny break between flowering.  The Full Moon certainly brought it to full flush. Last night I attended a memorial for Bob McCulley, the gardener who took care of my plants.  I introduced Bob to the Aglaia, and he started to introduce them to gardens all over Miami Shores and North Miami.  He grew to love this carefree fragrant tree as much as I did. This lemon/floral-scented beauty is a tidy small tree with glossy green foliage an

Ask the Perfumer - Sunday, April 29,2012

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Last week James posted a question that stumped me.  I attempted a weak answer about "why isn't there any rosa centifolia essential oil?" Rosa centifolia photo from Aromatics International - where they sell the hydrosol of this rose I asked three experts to help me, and they quickly came to the rescue: Andrea Butje of Aromahead is one of those experts who is humble enough to say when something is outside of her area of knowledge: Hi Anya, Nice to hear from you! I *imagine* that it is because the flower petals are too delicate to withstand the heat of a distillation. That may be why it is produced only as an absolute. Must be the damascena flowers are stronger. But not being a distiller or expert on distilling roses, I can not be totally sue. Maybe ask a rose distiller? How about Alain at Florihana. He is amazing. So I asked Alain of Florihana and he offered this expert information:   Bonjour Anya, There is no essential oil availab