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A Lovely New Book for Artisan Perfumers - Artisan Perfumery by Alec Lawless

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Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose by Alec Lawless I'm on vacation, so this won't be a long review, but I just had to get the word out on Alec Lawless' new book, Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose . The title should give a hint of his humorous approach to the subject of artisan perfumery, and he is consistent throughout the book with his sly wink at the industry, of which he's been a part of for over twenty years. The co-owner of Aqua-Oleum , along with his ex-wife, famed aromatherapy author Julia Lawless, Alec knows where the greatest aromatics are to be found, either in essential oil, concrete or absolute form, and after years of playing with the essences, began blending. He has a wonderfully relevant background in wine appreciation, and some of his observations on scent and perception, working in his love of sensory and psychology topics, are eye - and nose - openers. Lest I forget, the book's cover, a small piece of an original artwork he also s

A Lovely New Aromatic for the Perfumers - Omumbiri resin

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Omumbiri resin The Yahoo Natural Perfumery Group I host is a diverse, huge collection of lovers of natural aromatics from around the world. Recently, a member from South Africa wrote about a resin that is collected by the women of the Himba tribe of Namibia that shows promise in perfumery. The Himba collect the resin of Commiphora wildii - common name Omumbibi - to make body perfumes for themselves from this lovely fragrance material. It's related to myrrh, but has a lighter, fresher scent. The Himba mix the resin with fat, a process we can equate with an unguent, much like those known in ancient Egypt. Estee Lauder, Robertet and other large corporations have been investigating use of Omumbibi resin for a few years. Thankfully, Sophia, our NP Yahoo group member, was able to connect with the organization that is set up to protect the Himba and their aromatic resin and obtain some for experimentation by natural perfumers. This is the same organization that the corporations have b

Question of Freedom of Speech Put to Blogger(s)

Octavian of 1000 Fragrances blog received a warning from the attorneys of LVMH, the corporate giant that now owns Guerlain fragrances, that he must remove recent posts he wrote critical of their product. To quote from his blog: Without any personal message Guerlain legal service attacked me on blogger.com about what I have posted on Guerlain Idylle - Coty and it seems that I have to remove all, otherwise my acount will be deleted. This tactic should be a warning to other bloggers. My stance is to support Octavian and to call for other bloggers to spread the word on this matter, so that perhaps we can communicate amongst ourselves on how to handle any threats like this in the future. I have no idea if blogger.com will indeed censure Octavian. I encourage you to subscribe to his blog to keep apprised of developments.

Now Smell This Hosts Giveaway and Announcement of Launch of Kaffir in Cologne strength

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About a year and a half ago, Kevin of the Now Smell This blog reviewed my Kaffir perfume and stated he wished it was available in cologne strength for summer. Cost also figured in, and a hope for a bigger bottle. Well, I didn't make it last summer, but I have small 15ml spray cologne offerings of the zesty and leathery/woody Kaffir ready for this summer. (Yes, a perfume can open zesty and get all leathery and sexy and woody!) I wrote Robin, the head honcho of NST and offered her the exclusive release of Kaffir and a bottle to be awarded to a US or Canadian winner of a random draw . There were so many quick responses, and so many disappointed late entrants, I promptly offered two more bottles. As soon as I get the winner's addresses, the bottles will be in the mail, resplendent in their unique recycled boxes - that will grow wildflowers if planted! Its just a way to give back to the community, to thank Kevin for planting the idea of a cologne, and for Robin for being such a pion

Reminder: Natural Perfumers Guild Supplier Allured Business Media Offers 30% off all books Through June 30, 2009

30% discount off any book published by Allured Books through June 30th ! Natural Perfumers Guild member Allured Books - 30% off books Once again Allured Books, a division of Allured Business Media, has come through with a great discount offer on books! Allured is one of the top publishing house s in the world for fragrance and cosmetics books . If one of their gems is on your wish list, now is the time to take advantage of this offer and save! Just enter Anya30 as the coupon code when checking out to receive the 30% off the price of the book(s). If you have any questions on their books or ordering online, you can contact them at Books@allured.com , subject line- Anya30 . Web site - www.allured.com/bookstore

Distillation Part One - Gemini New Moon Distillation - The Noble Bay Laurel in a Heart Magic distillation unit

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Bay Leaf hydrosol flowing into the beaker I recently had to cut down - with much sorrow - a huge bay leaf tree/bush that I planted about 10 years ago. Many meals have benefited from the organic leaves of the Laurus nobilis I harvested from that tree. Planted at the SE corner of my patio, it had to be removed for patio expansion. I saved the roots, trunk, limbs and leaves, and they are all going to be used, nothing wasted. The roots, trunk and twigs will be used when I barbeque, as their aromatic beauty will flavor everything on the grill with a complex, floral, yet earthy and woody fragrance and taste. Now, I reasoned, was a great time to start distilling. Then with amazing clarity, the Universe confirmed my feeling. Within one week, a distiller I had known for years on the internet but not corresponded with in a year or two contacted me about joining the Guild with his newly-founded business, a Yahoo Natural Perfumery (YNP) group member joined the Guild and informed me he's making

Natural Perfumers Guild Member Allured Publishing - Great Discounts on books 30% off through June 30th

Once again Allured has come through with a great discount offer on books! Allured is one of the top publishing house in the world for fragrance and cosmetics books , and if one of their gems is on your wish list, you may wish to take advantage of this offer. Just enter Anya30 as the voucher code when checking out to receive the 30% off the price of the book(s).

New Members - The Natural Perfumers Guild Will Celebrate Beginning Its Fourth Year on June 1st with a Chance to Win the Arctander CD worth $900

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The Natural Perfumers Guild Will Celebrate Beginning Its Fourth Year on June 1st with a Chance to Win the Steffen Arctander CD worth $900 - New Members Only From the Slow Scent Newsletter May 1, 2009 sent to Subscribers The Natural Perfumers Guild will celebrate its Fourth anniversary on June 1, 2009 and Guild President Anya McCoy in asssociation with Allured Publishing Media announces that a CD of the three-volume set that includes Aroma Chemicals Vol. 1, Aroma Chemicals Vol. 2 and Natural Origins is being awarded in a random drawing for new members who join the Guild this month. This valuable CD retails for $900, and it might be yours if you join the NPG between May 1 and June 1, 2009. If your completed application and membership fee is received between those dates, your name will be entered into the giveaway for the CD. This is a great opportunity to be in the running to obtain one of the most coveted research tools in perfumery. The legacy of Steffan Arctander is that he produced

A Celebration of the Perfumes of the Earth and the Art of Those Who Love Them

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Aztec Gold Plumeria aka Fragipani Natural perfumers have an innate love of nature, flowers and the beauty of this planet. I say that after years of observing the posts by them on a Yahoo group devoted to natural perfumery . Most like to get their hands "in the soil" and grow herbs and flowers so that they can enjoy the harvest as tasty food or as an ingredient in a perfume they create. I'm one of them. I've been a gardener for many, many years. I wrote a paper on organic gardening for a class back in 1972, and later wrote for Organic Gardening magazine. Passionate about herbs, fragrant plants, veggies and tree crops, I've grown plants in Pennsylvania, California, Oregon, New York, New Jersey and Florida - talk about spanning growing zones! The photo of the white and gold plumeria above, the variety known as "Aztec Gold" was taken in 2003 in my garden. I've been tincturing the flowers for years, obtaining a beautifully golden fragrant extract th

White Sandalwood Oil + Full Moon in Libra = A Perfumer's Dream

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I'm overwhelmed with the sultry, woody, spicy, balsamic, heavy, transcendent scent of the bottles of Santalum album, aka White Sandalwood essential oil that I've been pouring for the members of the Natural Perfumers Guild. Tonight there's a Full Moon in Libra, the sign of beauty, and sandalwood is in the Pantheon of glorious, gorgeous, sought-after rare and elusive beautiful raw aromatics for fine natural perfumery. My sign is Libra, so I feel the utterly exalting power of this historic, deep, balsamic oil. Being a rather sloppy "pourer" of raw materials, I managed to get about 2mls of this oil on either my hands or in the pouring tray, where it was easy to recover. So I just got to schmering it, to use a little Yiddish, in honor of Pesach, and I'm in heaven! I also rubbed some on my shoulder, which was yanked out a bit today playing with the huge puppy I'm fostering, and the pain just melted away. Or maybe I'm just melting. I'm as tranquil as that

10% off at Anya's Garden Perfumes through April 4, 2009

To obtain your 10% off any scented purchase at Anya's Garden Perfumes, just use the code kaffirlime at checkout.

Anya's Garden Perfumes Kaffir Reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am

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I'm very touched that Kaffir Perfume, a Lime Leaf and Leather perfume from Anya's Garden, was reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am on March 27, 2009 and received a rave. Abigail is a perfumista with a skeptical nose about natural perfume, and the diffusivity and longevity of Kaffir has won her over - horray! As she notes, so many think that when you say "lime" that it'll be like the citrus fruit, but no, kaffir lime leaf is an aldehyde of a different sniffa - a chemical tweak on the typical (-) citronellal, being a (+) citronellal. I pushed the envelope with the opening blast of this unusual and fascinating citrus oil, and it's a great springtime scent because it embodies all the green sprigliness of the awakening of earth. Abigail then really "got" the leathery woody drydown, because after all that green hormonal surge and floral heart of sexiness, you need some good, unctuous long-lasting grounding ;-) When Kevin of Now Smell This reviewed Kaffir l

Anya's Garden Wins Top Florida Environmental Yard Award

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Anya's Garden of Perfumes is Named a " Golden Oak " yard for environmentally-sound practices I'm honored to announce that the perfume-centric garden that surrounds my home in Miami Shores received the highest award that the University of Florida's Friendly Yards and Neighborhoods program. I was the 17th person to go through the evaluation process back in 2003, the first in my village at that time. They recently revamped the program to reflect three levels of environmentally compliant gardens, and the Golden Oak award is the highest. A yard has to achieve at least 50 points, and I had 65 ticked off my checklist. Barbara, the State of Florida rep who came to evaluate my hard walked around asking questions about my irrigation practices, fertilizer use, grouping of plants according to water usage and function, and many other subjects. The program is meant to encourage water conservation, discourage the use of invasive plants, protect the waters of Florida from

Dispute over the Invention of "Cologne" Settled

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UPI reports that a centuries-old dispute between two Italian families as to who could claim their ancestor invented Cologne has supposedly been settled by the discovery of a note found on a bottle of Cologne by a researcher. You just have to love the intrigue that goes on in the perfume industry!

Room Perfume - Incense Warmer is a wonderful smoke-free way to add natural fragrance to your home or office

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Natural Perfumers Guild member Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts is the Supplier of this wonderful gadget that allows me to enjoy incense once again. I'm very allergic to smoke. I used to smoke two packs a day and quit many years ago. I guess it was just overexposure to smoke that brought the allergy on. The first bad episode I remember was in the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew. They burned tons of debris for weeks on end, and started coughing, having respiratory problems and headaches. No - wait. I remember an earlier incident. In 1987 I was visiting my family up north and we went to a restaurant and there was smoking and I was "stuffed up" for a week. But the Andrew aftermath really got me good, and by that I mean bad. During the mid-90's, I did some freelance PR work for music artists here in Miami, but by 98 or so I had to stop because they still allowed smoking in clubs and I just couldn't attend events I had planned and was hosting. I still used st

Anya's Garden Temple Perfume Featured in Sniffapalooza Magazine

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The March 1, 2009 issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine features Anya's Garden Temple Perfume in the article Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times by Michelyn Camen, Senior Contributing Editor. Temple was created with the purpose of comforting and focusing people - particularly, but not limited to women - who had undergone a traumatic incident. I gave away 100 samples for those who asked for a sample because I felt it was just a good way to pay forward the comfort and security I had found from natural aromatics, friends and family. The outpouring of intimate and touching stories that accompanied the request for samples humbled and also encouraged me I was on the right path with my concept. So, Temple, my first aromatherapy perfume was introduced to the world. Aromatherapy perfumes are created with a purpose, and the purpose is healing on some level, always. Myself, I find Temple a bit overpowering to wear. The deep, narcotic Oud used in it overwhelms my nose, and instead I use it on

Perfume and fragrance and body care business owners - don't be caught asleep at the wheel with the FDAGA2009 HR 759

You can't move forward in fear. You must be motivated and feel you have some power, some ability to change things, or effect a different outcome. The following blog is meant to erase fear and replace it with a sense of being awake and aware at the forces that shape our artful industry. What is all means to me: I don't want any more government regulations that can limit my ability to conduct a safe, environmentally-friendly small business. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If you have a small USA-based business that manufactures perfume, aromatherapy or body care products such as lotions, body butters, soaps (soaps with a claim of moisturizing or some other attribute beyond cleaning) and related products, the Federal Drug Administration's Global Harmonization Act of 2009 (FDAGA2009), currently in committee, but fast moving towards a vote into law, can pose problematic to you continuing your business. The requirements for testing, paperwork and personnel ar

The Architecture of the new Grasse International Perfume Museum

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Many of us perfumers and perfume lovers have read about the opening of the refurbished International Perfume Museum in Grasse, France in October, 2008. There is a short, illustrated piece from Metropolis magazine that captures the theory and application behind the design, and for me, a former landscape architect who loves design as much as I love perfume, it transports me there, immediately. I am able to understand how and why the architect Fréd­Ã©ric Jung arrived at the final design. Here is a link to the article.

More to worry about - spread the word - hidden in the FDA Globalization Act 2009 HR 759

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From the Farm Stand to the Farmers Market - if you make food or cosmetics, the FDA wants to change your way of life I've been putting these mini updates on Twitter and Facebook to the neglect of my blog. I'm going to start posting them here, too. Spread the word, and look for a more in-depth post in a few days. 1. The way the FDAGA2009 is written - it reads like there are no fees now, but they can set fees in a year or two. At their discretion. 2. The FDAGA2009 revised - allows an exemption for foodie small businesses (to be given special consideration because they are a small business) but NO exemption for cosmetic small businesses! Big trouble looming. More later. 3. T he FDAGA09 will allow the FDA to force registration of farm kitchen goods for sale. Up til now, it was the USDA. TWO Federal agencies in your kitchen? All artisan, craft and indie associations we can find will be contacted about this. If you can spread the word to foodies - breadmakers, chocolatiers, folks wit

Book Review: Roja Dove's "The Essence of Perfume

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Anya McCoy's review of "The Essence of Perfume" by Roja Dove has been published by Basenotes .

Please spread this letter to all natural aromatics groups and blogs - EU-based bad science is once again gunning for natural aromatics

Hello Everyone: For those of you who know me and know how long and how hard I have fought against the creeping over-regulation of natural aromatics, please be aware that here is a new threat: a thesis from a student who seems to be on track with the bad science and agenda of RIFM. I hope you can perhaps give back to the natural aromatics community by paying attention to our fight against the US Food and Drug Administrations Global Harmonization Act of 2009, which is the way the EU anti-naturals, anti-small business agenda makers are getting their foot in the door of our government. It will mean the end of our businesses, and perhaps even the end of our access to natural oils for home use. I've already posted this on the Natural Perfumers Guild blog and my blog, and I urge you to do the same if you have a blog, and also send it to relevant aromatherapy or perfumery groups you may be on. Anya Here is Tony's open letter - please spread it across the internet and if you can, work i

So what if your perfume might stain? So does coffee, tea, red wine, etc.

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Saffron stigmas Saffron absolute, made from the stigmas of the Crocus sativa flower are prized in cookery because of the slightly bitter, aromatic flavor they impart to food. The thread-like stigmas also impart a shade of yellow to the food, ranging from pale to moderately orange-yellow. The color comes from the catetonoid content of the stigmas, the same coloring agent found in tomatoes. Like tomatoes, saffron can stain clothes if you drop some of that yummy risotto you've made with the stigmas onto your white shirt. Like tomato, the saffron stain is pretty stubborn to remove. So, you are careful when you twirl the spaghetti on a fork, laden with marinara sauce, and you are careful when you lift the fork of saffron risotto to your lips. You pretty much take the same care when drinking coffee, tea or wine - same staining power, different dye chemical. Still, the same idea. Just be careful so you can enjoy your meal or drink. Over the years I've spoken with perfumers and even a

The FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759 is cause for alarm to all artisan businesspeople

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What the FDAGA 2009 will do to the American artisan food of cosmetic businessperson Do you make any body care or foodie product in the artisan manner? Artisan soap, artisan bread, artisan cheese, artisan perfume, etc? Don't let your guard down over the new "improved" Food and Drug Administration Act of 2009 (FDAGA2009). Please bookmark the links I'm providing here, you'll need them if you are an artisan. Also subscribe to this blog and others who are updating our efforts to understand (and in my case, fight) the FDAGA2009. A big sigh of relief went out from many who had opposed the horrifying fees proposed in the Food and Drug Administration Act of 2008 were eliminated from the Food and Drug Administration Act of 2009. I agree, dropping the fee was a great act. I called Donna Maria of the Indie Beauty Network in early June of 2008, alarmed. I had blogged about it the month before, and knew it was trouble, but couldn't figure out just what the trouble was. Don

The FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759 will be released to the public today Jan 30, 2009

Click here to read or download a copy of HR 759, the FDA Globalization Act of 2009 The FDA Globalization Act of 2008, which died in committee in December was expected to be introduced this year modified and it's here, much earlier than expected. On Tuesday I called Rep. Janet Schakowsky's office because it had been reported earlier that she might be the one to reintroduce the bill. Her rep said it was "unclear" at this time if she would. Well, the next day, in true DC confabulation, it was introduced by Rep. Charles Dingell (DemMI) (the original author of the 2008 bill) and Rep. Frank Pallone, Jr. (DemNJ) as the FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759. Until the bill is released on the internet today for close examination, a cursory look indicates that they may have backed off on the high fees and registration hurdles (more fees) that they were aiming at us, the little guys of the cosmetics industry. This is what is gleaned from the press release , but I'm holding of

Just when I take some time to catch up, Mr. Wiggles wiggles into my backyard

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What a handsome, sweet big dog. Just about the last think I need in my life right now. I am juggling so many clients, students and obligations it's ridiculous. We seldom have barking dogs in my village as there is a pretty stern law against it. When I heard a dog barking around 4:30 a.m., I thought it might be the new people who moved in with a big dog they keep in the backyard. When I moved to the back of my house, I realized the barking was coming from the alley, not the direction where the new folks and dog were. I went back to sleep. Over the next two-plus hours the dog barked on and off, from up and down the block, front and back. I figured it was a stray, and felt sorry for the poor thing. At 7:15, as I was getting up, I heard a big "woof" in the side yard next to my bedroom, where a wall deadends the yard. I parted the curtain, and his big, happy face looked up at me, he got on his hind legs, and you could imagine him saying "a people - a people who will take

Do you make a lot of mistakes attempting to create a perfume? My online basic perfumery course will set you on the professional path to perfumery

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Anya's Garden Online Basic Natural Perfumery Course The worldwide course is one year long and consists of nine modules of study Do you find you make some common mistakes in your attempts to create perfume? Do you even know if you're making mistakes? Are your blends muddy and you don't know why? Do you wish to gain a solid understanding of the basics of perfumery - basics that will last you a lifetime of study and perfume creation? Then this online, interactive course is for you. This course is for those who desire comprehensive basic training in: - Natural Perfumery - to become a Professional Perfumer - Education in a natural art - General interest in blending natural aromatics for the bath and body industry Materials Provided for Study - An aromatics kit of 25 absolutes and essential oils, labeled with botanical name, and country of origin. The bottles are 4ml in size, and four of the rare essences are diluted to 10%. Many students have said these aromatics far surpass any

I wrote to Obama's Administration today about the Energy and Commerce Committee's efforts to levy fees of $2000-$12000 on small artisan businesses

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I'm working with others to organize a two-pronged effort to expose the agenda of the Energy and Commerce Committee to effectively shut down our artisan businesses. Are you the member of a Guild of association of like-minded folks who make bread, body care products, toys, cheese, wine or any other made-in-America proudly and lovingly handcrafted item? You need to join us. Please volunteer - write me at my website contact page. You can visit the White House pag e and register your objection to the FDA Globalization Act or it new incarnation - not sure what the name will be yet. Click on the contact page and send your message. Here's what I wrote (messages are limited to 500 characters.) The Energy and Commerce Department is pushing the FDA Globalization Act or a form thereof and it will effectively put small artisan business out of business. We are organizing a grassroots group of associations of artisans - bread, cheese, perfume, bath and body care, etc. to fight the fees they

Energy and Commerce Committee to US Artisans: Drop Dead

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Got your attention? Too bad we all weren't paying attention to the US Energy and Commerce Committee. Sell handmade toys, children's clothing or any child-oriented item in your shop? Have some handmade children's toys, clothing or bath or body product you want to donate to a shelter? Perhaps you want to give some handmade cradle or bassinet away to your best friend. Forget it. Come February 10th, you have to: Empty your shop of the toys, forget about donations, and don't give them away - you might as well send them to the dump. The landfills across America should be full of handmade children's products in the coming months. Why? The U.S. Energy and Commerce Committee, the same group that attempted to pass the small-business-killing FDA Globalization Act last year, passed the Consumer Products Safety Improvement Act in August. Quietly, sneakily, this bill was passed into law and is just now becoming evident for what it is - the death knell for any handmade artisan pr