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A Celebration of the Perfumes of the Earth and the Art of Those Who Love Them

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Aztec Gold Plumeria aka Fragipani Natural perfumers have an innate love of nature, flowers and the beauty of this planet. I say that after years of observing the posts by them on a Yahoo group devoted to natural perfumery . Most like to get their hands "in the soil" and grow herbs and flowers so that they can enjoy the harvest as tasty food or as an ingredient in a perfume they create. I'm one of them. I've been a gardener for many, many years. I wrote a paper on organic gardening for a class back in 1972, and later wrote for Organic Gardening magazine. Passionate about herbs, fragrant plants, veggies and tree crops, I've grown plants in Pennsylvania, California, Oregon, New York, New Jersey and Florida - talk about spanning growing zones! The photo of the white and gold plumeria above, the variety known as "Aztec Gold" was taken in 2003 in my garden. I've been tincturing the flowers for years, obtaining a beautifully golden fragrant extract th

White Sandalwood Oil + Full Moon in Libra = A Perfumer's Dream

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I'm overwhelmed with the sultry, woody, spicy, balsamic, heavy, transcendent scent of the bottles of Santalum album, aka White Sandalwood essential oil that I've been pouring for the members of the Natural Perfumers Guild. Tonight there's a Full Moon in Libra, the sign of beauty, and sandalwood is in the Pantheon of glorious, gorgeous, sought-after rare and elusive beautiful raw aromatics for fine natural perfumery. My sign is Libra, so I feel the utterly exalting power of this historic, deep, balsamic oil. Being a rather sloppy "pourer" of raw materials, I managed to get about 2mls of this oil on either my hands or in the pouring tray, where it was easy to recover. So I just got to schmering it, to use a little Yiddish, in honor of Pesach, and I'm in heaven! I also rubbed some on my shoulder, which was yanked out a bit today playing with the huge puppy I'm fostering, and the pain just melted away. Or maybe I'm just melting. I'm as tranquil as that

10% off at Anya's Garden Perfumes through April 4, 2009

To obtain your 10% off any scented purchase at Anya's Garden Perfumes, just use the code kaffirlime at checkout.

Anya's Garden Perfumes Kaffir Reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am

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I'm very touched that Kaffir Perfume, a Lime Leaf and Leather perfume from Anya's Garden, was reviewed on I Smell Therefore I Am on March 27, 2009 and received a rave. Abigail is a perfumista with a skeptical nose about natural perfume, and the diffusivity and longevity of Kaffir has won her over - horray! As she notes, so many think that when you say "lime" that it'll be like the citrus fruit, but no, kaffir lime leaf is an aldehyde of a different sniffa - a chemical tweak on the typical (-) citronellal, being a (+) citronellal. I pushed the envelope with the opening blast of this unusual and fascinating citrus oil, and it's a great springtime scent because it embodies all the green sprigliness of the awakening of earth. Abigail then really "got" the leathery woody drydown, because after all that green hormonal surge and floral heart of sexiness, you need some good, unctuous long-lasting grounding ;-) When Kevin of Now Smell This reviewed Kaffir l

Anya's Garden Wins Top Florida Environmental Yard Award

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Anya's Garden of Perfumes is Named a " Golden Oak " yard for environmentally-sound practices I'm honored to announce that the perfume-centric garden that surrounds my home in Miami Shores received the highest award that the University of Florida's Friendly Yards and Neighborhoods program. I was the 17th person to go through the evaluation process back in 2003, the first in my village at that time. They recently revamped the program to reflect three levels of environmentally compliant gardens, and the Golden Oak award is the highest. A yard has to achieve at least 50 points, and I had 65 ticked off my checklist. Barbara, the State of Florida rep who came to evaluate my hard walked around asking questions about my irrigation practices, fertilizer use, grouping of plants according to water usage and function, and many other subjects. The program is meant to encourage water conservation, discourage the use of invasive plants, protect the waters of Florida from

Dispute over the Invention of "Cologne" Settled

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UPI reports that a centuries-old dispute between two Italian families as to who could claim their ancestor invented Cologne has supposedly been settled by the discovery of a note found on a bottle of Cologne by a researcher. You just have to love the intrigue that goes on in the perfume industry!

Room Perfume - Incense Warmer is a wonderful smoke-free way to add natural fragrance to your home or office

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Natural Perfumers Guild member Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts is the Supplier of this wonderful gadget that allows me to enjoy incense once again. I'm very allergic to smoke. I used to smoke two packs a day and quit many years ago. I guess it was just overexposure to smoke that brought the allergy on. The first bad episode I remember was in the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew. They burned tons of debris for weeks on end, and started coughing, having respiratory problems and headaches. No - wait. I remember an earlier incident. In 1987 I was visiting my family up north and we went to a restaurant and there was smoking and I was "stuffed up" for a week. But the Andrew aftermath really got me good, and by that I mean bad. During the mid-90's, I did some freelance PR work for music artists here in Miami, but by 98 or so I had to stop because they still allowed smoking in clubs and I just couldn't attend events I had planned and was hosting. I still used st

Anya's Garden Temple Perfume Featured in Sniffapalooza Magazine

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The March 1, 2009 issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine features Anya's Garden Temple Perfume in the article Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times by Michelyn Camen, Senior Contributing Editor. Temple was created with the purpose of comforting and focusing people - particularly, but not limited to women - who had undergone a traumatic incident. I gave away 100 samples for those who asked for a sample because I felt it was just a good way to pay forward the comfort and security I had found from natural aromatics, friends and family. The outpouring of intimate and touching stories that accompanied the request for samples humbled and also encouraged me I was on the right path with my concept. So, Temple, my first aromatherapy perfume was introduced to the world. Aromatherapy perfumes are created with a purpose, and the purpose is healing on some level, always. Myself, I find Temple a bit overpowering to wear. The deep, narcotic Oud used in it overwhelms my nose, and instead I use it on

Perfume and fragrance and body care business owners - don't be caught asleep at the wheel with the FDAGA2009 HR 759

You can't move forward in fear. You must be motivated and feel you have some power, some ability to change things, or effect a different outcome. The following blog is meant to erase fear and replace it with a sense of being awake and aware at the forces that shape our artful industry. What is all means to me: I don't want any more government regulations that can limit my ability to conduct a safe, environmentally-friendly small business. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If you have a small USA-based business that manufactures perfume, aromatherapy or body care products such as lotions, body butters, soaps (soaps with a claim of moisturizing or some other attribute beyond cleaning) and related products, the Federal Drug Administration's Global Harmonization Act of 2009 (FDAGA2009), currently in committee, but fast moving towards a vote into law, can pose problematic to you continuing your business. The requirements for testing, paperwork and personnel ar

The Architecture of the new Grasse International Perfume Museum

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Many of us perfumers and perfume lovers have read about the opening of the refurbished International Perfume Museum in Grasse, France in October, 2008. There is a short, illustrated piece from Metropolis magazine that captures the theory and application behind the design, and for me, a former landscape architect who loves design as much as I love perfume, it transports me there, immediately. I am able to understand how and why the architect Fréd­Ã©ric Jung arrived at the final design. Here is a link to the article.

More to worry about - spread the word - hidden in the FDA Globalization Act 2009 HR 759

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From the Farm Stand to the Farmers Market - if you make food or cosmetics, the FDA wants to change your way of life I've been putting these mini updates on Twitter and Facebook to the neglect of my blog. I'm going to start posting them here, too. Spread the word, and look for a more in-depth post in a few days. 1. The way the FDAGA2009 is written - it reads like there are no fees now, but they can set fees in a year or two. At their discretion. 2. The FDAGA2009 revised - allows an exemption for foodie small businesses (to be given special consideration because they are a small business) but NO exemption for cosmetic small businesses! Big trouble looming. More later. 3. T he FDAGA09 will allow the FDA to force registration of farm kitchen goods for sale. Up til now, it was the USDA. TWO Federal agencies in your kitchen? All artisan, craft and indie associations we can find will be contacted about this. If you can spread the word to foodies - breadmakers, chocolatiers, folks wit

Book Review: Roja Dove's "The Essence of Perfume

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Anya McCoy's review of "The Essence of Perfume" by Roja Dove has been published by Basenotes .

Please spread this letter to all natural aromatics groups and blogs - EU-based bad science is once again gunning for natural aromatics

Hello Everyone: For those of you who know me and know how long and how hard I have fought against the creeping over-regulation of natural aromatics, please be aware that here is a new threat: a thesis from a student who seems to be on track with the bad science and agenda of RIFM. I hope you can perhaps give back to the natural aromatics community by paying attention to our fight against the US Food and Drug Administrations Global Harmonization Act of 2009, which is the way the EU anti-naturals, anti-small business agenda makers are getting their foot in the door of our government. It will mean the end of our businesses, and perhaps even the end of our access to natural oils for home use. I've already posted this on the Natural Perfumers Guild blog and my blog, and I urge you to do the same if you have a blog, and also send it to relevant aromatherapy or perfumery groups you may be on. Anya Here is Tony's open letter - please spread it across the internet and if you can, work i

So what if your perfume might stain? So does coffee, tea, red wine, etc.

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Saffron stigmas Saffron absolute, made from the stigmas of the Crocus sativa flower are prized in cookery because of the slightly bitter, aromatic flavor they impart to food. The thread-like stigmas also impart a shade of yellow to the food, ranging from pale to moderately orange-yellow. The color comes from the catetonoid content of the stigmas, the same coloring agent found in tomatoes. Like tomatoes, saffron can stain clothes if you drop some of that yummy risotto you've made with the stigmas onto your white shirt. Like tomato, the saffron stain is pretty stubborn to remove. So, you are careful when you twirl the spaghetti on a fork, laden with marinara sauce, and you are careful when you lift the fork of saffron risotto to your lips. You pretty much take the same care when drinking coffee, tea or wine - same staining power, different dye chemical. Still, the same idea. Just be careful so you can enjoy your meal or drink. Over the years I've spoken with perfumers and even a

The FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759 is cause for alarm to all artisan businesspeople

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What the FDAGA 2009 will do to the American artisan food of cosmetic businessperson Do you make any body care or foodie product in the artisan manner? Artisan soap, artisan bread, artisan cheese, artisan perfume, etc? Don't let your guard down over the new "improved" Food and Drug Administration Act of 2009 (FDAGA2009). Please bookmark the links I'm providing here, you'll need them if you are an artisan. Also subscribe to this blog and others who are updating our efforts to understand (and in my case, fight) the FDAGA2009. A big sigh of relief went out from many who had opposed the horrifying fees proposed in the Food and Drug Administration Act of 2008 were eliminated from the Food and Drug Administration Act of 2009. I agree, dropping the fee was a great act. I called Donna Maria of the Indie Beauty Network in early June of 2008, alarmed. I had blogged about it the month before, and knew it was trouble, but couldn't figure out just what the trouble was. Don

The FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759 will be released to the public today Jan 30, 2009

Click here to read or download a copy of HR 759, the FDA Globalization Act of 2009 The FDA Globalization Act of 2008, which died in committee in December was expected to be introduced this year modified and it's here, much earlier than expected. On Tuesday I called Rep. Janet Schakowsky's office because it had been reported earlier that she might be the one to reintroduce the bill. Her rep said it was "unclear" at this time if she would. Well, the next day, in true DC confabulation, it was introduced by Rep. Charles Dingell (DemMI) (the original author of the 2008 bill) and Rep. Frank Pallone, Jr. (DemNJ) as the FDA Globalization Act of 2009 HR 759. Until the bill is released on the internet today for close examination, a cursory look indicates that they may have backed off on the high fees and registration hurdles (more fees) that they were aiming at us, the little guys of the cosmetics industry. This is what is gleaned from the press release , but I'm holding of

Just when I take some time to catch up, Mr. Wiggles wiggles into my backyard

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What a handsome, sweet big dog. Just about the last think I need in my life right now. I am juggling so many clients, students and obligations it's ridiculous. We seldom have barking dogs in my village as there is a pretty stern law against it. When I heard a dog barking around 4:30 a.m., I thought it might be the new people who moved in with a big dog they keep in the backyard. When I moved to the back of my house, I realized the barking was coming from the alley, not the direction where the new folks and dog were. I went back to sleep. Over the next two-plus hours the dog barked on and off, from up and down the block, front and back. I figured it was a stray, and felt sorry for the poor thing. At 7:15, as I was getting up, I heard a big "woof" in the side yard next to my bedroom, where a wall deadends the yard. I parted the curtain, and his big, happy face looked up at me, he got on his hind legs, and you could imagine him saying "a people - a people who will take

Do you make a lot of mistakes attempting to create a perfume? My online basic perfumery course will set you on the professional path to perfumery

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Anya's Garden Online Basic Natural Perfumery Course The worldwide course is one year long and consists of nine modules of study Do you find you make some common mistakes in your attempts to create perfume? Do you even know if you're making mistakes? Are your blends muddy and you don't know why? Do you wish to gain a solid understanding of the basics of perfumery - basics that will last you a lifetime of study and perfume creation? Then this online, interactive course is for you. This course is for those who desire comprehensive basic training in: - Natural Perfumery - to become a Professional Perfumer - Education in a natural art - General interest in blending natural aromatics for the bath and body industry Materials Provided for Study - An aromatics kit of 25 absolutes and essential oils, labeled with botanical name, and country of origin. The bottles are 4ml in size, and four of the rare essences are diluted to 10%. Many students have said these aromatics far surpass any

I wrote to Obama's Administration today about the Energy and Commerce Committee's efforts to levy fees of $2000-$12000 on small artisan businesses

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I'm working with others to organize a two-pronged effort to expose the agenda of the Energy and Commerce Committee to effectively shut down our artisan businesses. Are you the member of a Guild of association of like-minded folks who make bread, body care products, toys, cheese, wine or any other made-in-America proudly and lovingly handcrafted item? You need to join us. Please volunteer - write me at my website contact page. You can visit the White House pag e and register your objection to the FDA Globalization Act or it new incarnation - not sure what the name will be yet. Click on the contact page and send your message. Here's what I wrote (messages are limited to 500 characters.) The Energy and Commerce Department is pushing the FDA Globalization Act or a form thereof and it will effectively put small artisan business out of business. We are organizing a grassroots group of associations of artisans - bread, cheese, perfume, bath and body care, etc. to fight the fees they

Energy and Commerce Committee to US Artisans: Drop Dead

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Got your attention? Too bad we all weren't paying attention to the US Energy and Commerce Committee. Sell handmade toys, children's clothing or any child-oriented item in your shop? Have some handmade children's toys, clothing or bath or body product you want to donate to a shelter? Perhaps you want to give some handmade cradle or bassinet away to your best friend. Forget it. Come February 10th, you have to: Empty your shop of the toys, forget about donations, and don't give them away - you might as well send them to the dump. The landfills across America should be full of handmade children's products in the coming months. Why? The U.S. Energy and Commerce Committee, the same group that attempted to pass the small-business-killing FDA Globalization Act last year, passed the Consumer Products Safety Improvement Act in August. Quietly, sneakily, this bill was passed into law and is just now becoming evident for what it is - the death knell for any handmade artisan pr

Shape-shifting odor molecules

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Chemists Promote Theory of "Shape Shifting" Odor Molecules Perfumers, perfumistas, scent geeks and assorted nose-governed folk have been aware of the shape theory of olfaction for years. Let's say a molecule of orange is square and of a certain size. Theory had it that your nasal receptor site had a square "hole" (for want of a better term) of that size that allowed that square orange molecule to travel up to the brain, where it was analyzed to be orange. Luca Turin had a different theory, and he postulated that odor molecules vibrated to a different frequency, and it was the receptor site that passed that frequency on to the brain, and thus, we knew an orange was an orange, not to be mixed with apple. Profs. Kevin Ryan and Stuart Firestein report in the journal " Chemistry and Senses " that they have a third theory, more linked to the shape theory - that molecules shape shift as they are inhaled. To me, it looks like a kind of hybrid between shape the

A Happy Naturally Perfumed New Year!

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I'm trying to take a few days off from the perfume business, but you know how it is. Artisans are workaholics and devoted to the art, so I'm still fiddling with mods, packaging up the boronia for the Guild members, fielding questions, etc. It's been a great year, but what I wouldn't give for some truly carefree days. My mother is doing incredibly well for 89, friends are, for the most part, hale and hearty, family is cruising along pretty well, and the cats are being their same old catty silly selves. I will now have three perfumes released early next year, well, at least by spring, I hope. Also, the Prima Aroma line will launch. Stay tuned for updates, and some more specials for the Guild members. Take care everyone, and remember to reflect and use your wisdom in moving forward. Most of all, take care of yourself.

Organic White Rose hydrosol from Anya's Garden Perfumes - limited supply

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Shhhh --- a quick, limited offer from Anya's Garden - a glorious organic white rose hydrosol! This sale starts December 25th, 2008 Notice: Anya's Garden of Perfumes regular store is closed for a lovely holiday until Monday January 5, 2009 But , due to popular demand, the Organic Bulgarian White Rose Hydrosol will be sold during this time - get it while you can! Supplies are limited and it is expected to sell out quickly. Click here to purchase. Rosa damascena var. Alba is a descendant of the ancient apothecary rose, Rosa gallica. Used for centuries for skin care, it is lovely just sprayed on the face and body after a shower, or sniffed to be enjoyed anytime to refresh and lighten your spirit. It blends beautifuly into lotions and creams during the "water phase". Mix with some clay for a facial mask, and spritz some hydrosol on after you remove the mask because it's a wonderful toner for your skin, balancing the sebum production. I love to spray it on

Happy Holiday Wishes from Anya's Garden of Perfumes

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Wishing you lovely perfume this holiday time of year Check back tomorrow for another giveaway

Please don't vote for my blogs on fragrantica.com ;-)

It's very sweet some readers nominated me for this blog and also the Natural Perfumers Guild blog - but I have no use for the prize, which is a gift certificate to a store that sells only perfumes containing synthetics. It's sort of like a vegetarian winning a prize hunk of meat. It's nice that they're gathering all the blogs and are going to put them into a common area, but please - save your votes where I'm concerned.

I Want a Secretary of Agriculture that Supports Organic Ideals - Do You?

I've been writing about organic gardening since 1972 (admittedly for a school paper, but it was a start!) and organic agriculture since the mid 70's. In the 1990's I wrote Organic Gardening magazine asking why they didn't have a "Zone 10" (South Florida) writer and they asked me to write for them. I've started several community gardens that asked for (we couldn't demand) the gardeners to use only organic methods. The first was in 1976 in Riverside, California, at the married student housing center. So you can say I really have a decent resume in promoting organic gardening and farming methods, but this is the first time I've ever been fired up about the United States Secretary of Agriculture. Too often, we've only had tools of the ag chemical industry in that position, but hopefully this time we might get a voice for organic agriculture and hopefully (because I never stop hoping) sustainable agriculture. A fellow on Facebook posted a link to th

20% off Natural Perfumers Guild membership Fee Offered Through December 31, 2008

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We welcome you to celebrate December is Natural Perfume Month and we invite you to visit the Natural Perfumers Guild site to learn more about us. We welcome you to join the Guild, and a 20% discount on the membership fee is being offered throughout December in celebration of Natural Perfume month. Fill out the form on the Guild site this month and you will be refunded the difference of the discount. Help us celebrate natural aromatics and work with us as we promote natural fragrances and educate the public as to the beauty of fragrance from a plant, not a test tube. The Natural Perfumers Guild supports artisanal distillers, works to lobby for fair business practices for artisan business owners, provides business support services and best of all - a network of like-minded people.

Anya's Garden Giveaway - the winners

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Winners of the natural perfume samples and ambergris giveaway are - Stephanie (general public) - and Keri (from the Natural Perfumers Guild applicants.) Each giveaway will have two prizes - one for the general public and one for the members of the Guild. Stephanie and Keri: please send me your mail address privately by visiting the contact page on my website: http://anyasgarden.com/contact.htm Everyone else - a new giveaway will be announced in a few hours so check back!

Pass me the oakmoss and a crooked banana I'm going to live dangerously - Fight the FDA Global Harmonization Act of 2008

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I was noodling around the Internet this morning and found this: "Until recently, the EU banned the sale of ugly carrots with knobby protrusions, cucumbers that were grossly curved, and equally unaesthetic specimens of 24 other fruits and vegetables. "It makes no sense to throw perfectly good products away, just because they are the 'wrong' shape," said the EU's commissioner for agriculture." I've often related to disbelieving friends and colleagues that the EU is so out of hand with their Draconian, bad-science, big brother is watching you (and forcing you out of business) mentality that they regulated the curve in bananas. Too much curve, can't be sold in the EU. My particular peeve with them is the bad science and horrid fees they impose on perfumers both artisanal and corporate alike. They've been partly to blame for the reformulation of many perfume classics, deeming oakmoss and orange oil alike too dangerous for us poor silly une

The First Anya's Garden of Perfume Podcast - Perfumery Terms

Confused about chypre, ambergris, ylang ylang, absolute or concrete? Well, let my New York/Philly accented voice clue you in and I hope, help you out ;-) I originally recorded a version of this for my online perfumery course and I've seen over the years how often these terms are the subject of concern on my yahoo perfumery group , so have a listen - it's short and sweet ;-) PS: Is this the first-ever perfumery podcast by a perfumer? I've searched and never found one. Let me know if you know of any, otherwise I'm laying claim to being the first perfumer to podcast. Beauty blogs where they pod about the latest perfume releases don't count, LOL. Click below to play: