Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Natural Perfumers Guild member Allured Business Media offering 20% off books


Allured Business Media offering 20% discount until Dec. 31, 2009

If you are a perfumer, flavorist, perfumista, spa owner, formulator of body care products, in the fragrance field or any related industry, you'll be happy to know that Natural Perfumers Guild member Allured Business Media, a leading source of publications, monographs, CDs and other educational and industrial materials for the industry is once again offering a great discount to readers of this blog. However, please feel free to spread the word about the discounts to other websites, as this great deal is also meant to reach the bigger internet audience.

Now through December 31, 2009, you can get 20% off any book by using the code Anya20 at checkout. Your discount won't show up until you click through the checkout process. Just click here to see the wealth of reading materials offered in this special deal. Hope you have some great publications in your hands soon, thanks to them!

Thursday, August 20, 2009

More Trademark Silliness - squatting on common words makes no sense, morally or otherwise, just looks petty

Trademark squatters over common words are so out of control. A few years ago, I was threatened by Bond No. 9 owner Laurice Rahme's attorneys because I named one of my perfumes Riverside, and she claimed control over the name Riverside in fragrance due to her Riverside Drive. I simply changed the name to RiverCali.
Then another perfumer got heat from the same attorneys over the use of the word "Peace" in a perfume, because again, Rahme claimed the word was hers alone to use. If you google Anya's Garden, Rahme, trademark, you'll find many bloggers covered this issue. I didn't have the money or inclination to fight Rahme, but now the squatters fight is getting lots of press and money thrown at it.

Two folks with lots of money are going to battle, and the squatter lost the first round. Who in the heck thinks its reasonable to squat on the word "nude"? I have termed the word "squatter" for the omnivorous trademarker who, like those who squat on website registrations of the names of famous folks are deemed squatters. It's just wrong, IMHO.

What's next? "homme", "spring", etc., any and every common word in any language?

Monday, August 03, 2009

Lilac Flower CO2 - Disappointment, Yet Hope

New Lilac Flower CO2 too faint and too short-lived - but let's keep hoping!

I was very excited to be offered a sample of an ambitious extraction that could have rocked the natural perfumery world - a CO2 form of lilac flowers. The only lilac flower scent in perfumery is synthetic, and many of us long for the ethereal, green sweet tangy floral note on our perfume organ.

The CO2 is a pale yellow wax, and at first sniff out of the bottle, I was pleasantly surprised - true lilac scent! No indolic undernotes, either, showing that the flowers had been harvested and quickly extracted before the musky, rank indoles could develop.

I invited a student over for the formal organoleptic evaluation. We used the sheets I designed for my online perfumery course, and we sat down with high hopes. She wasn't very familiar with lilacs, coming from a part of the country where they don't grow, so I knew this would be interesting!


First we smeared a little bit of the wax on the broad end of the scent strip, saving the dipping end for the second eval of the diluted wax. At first, the wax was very faint, and we only rated it a "1" on the intensity scale, out of 1 to 5, 5 being a very strong, intense scent. Then I made a rough 50/50 dilution of some of the wax in 190 proof alcohol. It dissolved rather quickly, as CO2s tend to do. We dipped our scent strips and disappointment showed on both our faces.

The interesting thing was that she could only use "fragipani" as a scent reference for the floral component, her being very familiar with fragipani absolutes, unaware of what lilac smells like. I could see the fragipani component, but I got true lilac. And paper. We also noted a fresh, green crisp scent which I do recognize as part of the lilac blossom. After just a few minutes the scent was gone on the strip, but seemed a little stronger on the wax-smeared paper. How unusual.

This company is experimenting with new extractions, and I'm going to encourage them to continue with the lilac flowers. With practice and experimentation I hope they'll be able to produce a produce of a higher scent intensity that lasts longer. At this point in time, I just view their efforts as beginners luck in so much as they did capture a pure, clean lilac scent, but improvement is needed to create a market-worthy product.